Five years of this

Photo from “Watch Your Step,” a 2010 Tom’s On The Move post about a trip to Yannapaccha in Peru’s Cordilleras Blancas.

Pop some bubbly, throw confetti; drink enough of the bubbly to get teary-eyed over the speeches; give some one else the car keys.

It’s the fifth anniversary of Tom’s On The Move.

When a wildly successful media outlet such as mine has been in the business long enough, celebration is in order. I started Tom’s on The Move as some guy who went on small-scale adventures — climbed mountains here and there, liked running, went kayaking and skiing and on overnight trips. The launch of the website not only kickstarted a lucrative career as a paid outdoor writer, it also financed several international expeditions with sponsors breaking down the doors to get on board. There have been those amazing new species of plants and animals I discovered, the late night television appearances. Then there is the influence that comes with my memberships on various government and corporate boards who lean on my expertise to make sound decisions on outdoor and environmental matters.

I’ve also been lying for several sentences now, a great way to spice up otherwise mundane travel accounts.

When I wonder what has kept me posting five years worth of irregular dispatches from this irregular life, I hope doesn’t account for all of it. No. Because, I can look at where I’ve been and what I’ve done, smile and then let the truth fall: I’m dissatisfied.

If I actually expected fame and fortune to emerge from authoring small adventure blog, then I richly deserve dissatisfaction. Rather, I am dissatisfied because I can put all these blogs together and see a series of disjointed movements that failed to carry me decisively in one direction.

There are individual efforts against mountain peaks or the last miles toward the finish line. After Point A, many trials and tribulations, moments of doubt, until —at last!— Point B.

I’ve lurched out for many of these Point B’s, which are there, because, well, if there is no Point B, then it’s pointless. I’ve tried to discipline my entries into this format so that readers know what they are getting into, what’s at stake.

What I haven’t defined is the larger Point B. Where is Tom (and Tom’s On The Move) ultimately moving? Where should it go?

Over the mountain, through the canyon

Finding physical challenges have been one journey. I like pushing my body, especially when it comes to endurance. That motivation might be as simple as, ‘I can do this, but other people can’t.’

I also like the feeling of doing something hard, feeling mind and muscle working together. Challenges like mountains, or else long days on the trail or the water reveal what is possible, force us to become aware of limits.

While I have enjoyed getting better at things like running, and even getting into cross-country skiing this year, I know that I am still nowhere near the limits of what I can do, especially if I devoted more time, effort and knowledge to pushing myself.

My tent at a mountain lake in the Wyoming Big Horns.

To know what’s there

Adventures are a great way to build awareness of nature. Again, I have much to learn. I read science news about ecology, thumb through nature guides, read works about how humans have been destroying a fabric of life they hardly understand. Yet, I am a long way from being able to look at a pond scene or forest canopy, and understand even a fraction of what is going on. Such ignorance makes me wonder how we can justify traveling beyond our backyards if we can’t even name all the flowers growing there.

A couple years back, I noticed that most of my favorite writers were very strong when it came to descriptions of the natural world, whether I read Cormac McCarthy, Edward Abbey, Tolkien, Dostoyevsky or Robert Frost.

My appreciation of this is no doubt linked to biologist E.O. Wilson’s concept of biophillia, an innate love of nature that comes hardwired into our brains. Even the writers that we don’t commonly think of as nature writers often draw profundity in natural beauty.

I took a canoe out in the Boundary Waters the other day and let myself drift out in the middle of a big lake with no man-made objects in sight. No distractions but my own thoughts. It was amazing how that act changed my self-conception, calmed me, quieted the inner turmoil of disjointed thought. How much more valuable that time would have been, if I could have lost myself for a week instead of half a day.

It is hard to overlook how contemporary society is dissociated from nature, unable to understand how it works or how to survive in it, and the environmentally destructive choices that this society makes.

Mud nests in a Badlands canyon,

Becoming a better writer

Contemplation isn’t the end goal, however. It is only a tool that helps build understanding. Writing thoughts down is the best way that I’ve found to build clearer thinking.

An English professor of mine once said that learning writing is actually learning how to think. I often don’t realize contradictions in my thoughts, until I write them. Often, solving the contradiction is a process of going through the grammar and editing sentences.

The act of writing about an experience builds upon it. Without writing, I could be a passive consumer of events. When I know that I plan to write about something, I think differently about it. I try to be a more studious observer and I try to be more aware of my thoughts. I also imagine, you, dear reader, nodding along when you agree with what I’m thinking, or calling bullshit, when I write something that’s bullshit.

Some would argue that this is too self aware and risks creating artifice. I suspect that most of us already live through experiences self-consciously, whether we acknowledge it or not. We think about how we will caption the photos in Facebook albums (and who will like and comment on the post), think about how we will spin a heroic story to our friends when we get back from an adventure. We instinctively imitate the convenient archetypes that movies and books provide.

You’ll never see an entry on this site that goes like: “When I saw the bird take wing from the branch, it was the only thing I was aware of, the only thing that mattered.”

Bullshit.

I was actually thinking about how I could write that sentence in a way that would impress the readership, but subtle enough to avoid getting called out for pretense. I’ll stop being self-conscious when I’m unconscious, a state that is not conducive to productive writing.

My outdoor writing is a way to claim  a stake in personal experience.

I could have all kinds of interesting thoughts sitting in a canoe in the middle of the lake, and I can be endlessly entertained by reading what great writer’s have to say about lakes and that’s nice. But, the real growth comes out of working with these inputs, repurposing them into an understanding I can call my own. If I am humble, I will  acknowledge how much I owe the understanding to outside experience, the wisdom of forebears.

If I can put together an understanding that is persuasive enough enough, perhaps others will want to absorb it into their own.

We social mammals strive to be accepted, loved, understood. I want my writing to be a springboard for my values, to have a value that people can take away with them.

Thus, it is always a pleasure, when I hear that people have been reading my stuff, that they might have actually, enjoyed it. That keeps me from just saying, ‘To hell with it,’ and keeping a journal.

Ice formations I photographed in the Onion River Canyon this winter

Self-Discovery

There is still the risk that everything that comes out of my introspection and observation will be trite, cliched and obvious.

Yet, if I arrive at conclusions as the result of careful thinking, hours of writing, then at least I will feel the satisfaction of knowing that I own those values. I didn’t just pick them up at checkout and take them home with me. I got my fingers in the dirt, examining, questioning, cultivating.

If I can write about what I do, perhaps it will help me to better understand what makes me tick, better understand what the world around me is, how I am supposed to behave in it.

Alarm bells should go off whenever, I find myself writing about getaways. There is always something to get away from. More interesting to me, is finding a way to get a footing in the “real world” full of all its messy relationships, money transactions, positions of power, injustices and constant compromise.

The temptation to imagine that wilderness is some fantasia apart from our supermarket aisles and gas stations is dangerous because these are on the same planet, suffused with the same atmosphere, built on the same dirt. The car we drive despoils someone else’s eden with oil derricks. The more repulsive our mini-malls and office cubicles become to us, the more we feel the need to embrace the quiet lake.

But even on the quiet lake, the cacophony of our civilized white noise buzzes on through my head, even if nature helps to quiet it. The seemingly separate worlds permeate each other.

Both spheres have new challenges for me to face.

In the stories we read, it is challenge that reveals a character’s true nature. What decisions does the character make? What does the character learn about his/her nature?

If my true character has not become clear to me, it is because I have left too many challenges unanswered, or I haven’t picked the right one yet.

Again, looking over my own words helps guide my insight (and my internal editor warns me that the change in tone is too abrupt, too deus ex machina.) Now it seems that I can only ignore their message through willful blindness  The quiet lakes and still un-despoiled mountains which have given me so much, deserve more from me. They deserve someone who doesn’t just write about them, but fights for them.

After all this thinking, there comes the the tough part, I must find a way to do what I believe in.

Thanks for reading.

Alcove on Lake Superior at dusk

Walking on Ice

_MG_5128
Waves carved this small cave into the ice alongside Lake Superior.

 

It’s important to stand in the right place, get the angle right.

Come over here and look this way, out over the miles of ice that stretch clear to the horizon. If you’re patient, you might see one of the snow devils, 15-feet high whirlwinds, silent and barely discernable against the clouds. It’s the closest thing to life that you’ll see out there — at least through squinting, sun-tormented eyes.

In the foreground, see how the wind has smashed the ice into itself, forming curious piles that flash iridescent blue from within. It’s beautiful, but reminds us of the treacherous nature of our location. Even now, we hear the occasional grinding of ice against ice and the loud “chunk” sound beneath our feet. Perhaps we shouldn’t stand here.

This ice has only been around for a few days. Before that, it was open water. Before it was open water, it was a field of ice much like the one we are standing on. The winds came out from the north and blew that ice over the horizon in one night. The open water looked deep blue and innocent, as if it had always been that way.

Turning back toward the mainland, a very different world comes into view. Now we see the rental units at the resort, where guests can take the in the drama of the Lake Superior ice from a cozy armchair, maybe a Jacuzzi.

_MG_5154
LeAnn explores another ice cave

OK, so were not in Greenland. We won’t be sleeping in an igloo tonight. I’m thinking about renting a movie before we go back to my apartment with its hot running water and heated floor. I’m grateful for the conveniences at my back, but also glad that I can make them disappear if I look in the right direction.

The biggest ice walls are at least 12 feet high. They were born several weeks back when six-foot waves crashed up against a thin ice layer along the shore. The bay looked like a churning field of broken glass. When all those shattered pieces smashed up against the beach, the waves bulldozed them into massive piles. The freezing spray welded it all together and added more height to the already impressive heaps.

If we climb over those heaps to the other side, we can really make the shoreline disappear. Plus, there might be some cool caves and alcoves worth exploring. We should take these ice axes, firstly because ice axes are badass, but also because we can use them to tap the ice in front of us and see if anything is suspect. If one of us did fall through, an axe could be a useful self-rescue tool. Hopefully, this will not be necessary. I hope I’m not being an idiot.

I do want us to use the axes, but mainly to see if we can climb up a formation I call “The Blowhole.” When the waves were crashing in a couple weeks ago, spray had erupted through this opening in the ice like a miniature Old Faithful geyser. Now that the waves are gone, I’d like a shot at going up myself.

_MG_5150
The frozen Lake Superior as seen from another ice cave. A few days later, all of the flat ice would be open water again.

Before we get to the climb, however, there’s plenty of other cool stuff to check out, including all these caves. Right next to the dock I’d kayaked under in the summer (it’s completely caked in ice now) there is a small cavern barely tall enough to crawl through and even then I don’t go far because I don’t want to bring all the icicles on top of my head. What is really striking is the sapphire glow from within the ice. It reminds me of photographs of containment pools for depleted nuclear rods.

_MG_5172
In the ice cathedral

You whoop at the wild isolation of our locale. I’m glad you’re so adventurous and that you take so much joy in this simple outing. You climb up into alcoves for me to take pictures, taste the murderous-looking icicles above our heads.

Climbing up the blowhole won’t be so difficult, I realize, when I see it from the bottom. It starts as a gentle slope, and the fact that I will be ascending in a cylinder offers numerous holds for both axe tips and the crampon points. Nonetheless, I strap my crampons on and take both ice axes. It only takes me a few seconds to wriggle up and flop out onto the bright ice.

I come back around so that you can try it yourself. You elect to skip the crampons, and clamber up, no problem. Fine. I’ll skip the axes and climb out of there with crampons alone. I manage, though it takes some awkward footwork.

_MG_5160
Climbing the blowhole

We spend another twenty minutes exploring the network of caves and alcoves. I try another climb above an overhang. It gets tough when I have no ice to sink my crampons into, and eventually I reach out and grab a knob of ice to pull myself up the last stretch. Eventually, we leave to drive to another point along the shore, which supposedly has some other impressive formations.

Indeed, when we arrive, there are several piles that look like shattered plate glass. Most are about six-inches thick and anywhere from a foot to seven feet long. It is possible to pick one up and look right through it like a window — or marvel at the tiny trails of bubbles in suspended animation.

You talk about building a fantastic see-through igloo. I’d be tempted to try if my feet weren’t so cold. There’s so much more to explore and do, but right now I’m getting cold as all hell.

We walk out to the far point, which is a defiant stone bulwark jutting out against the lake. The waves have absolutely pummeled this rock. It is about 25-teet tall and utterly draped with ice. 19th century traders traveling along the shore called this the “Sugarloaf” because the rock resembled one of the old sacks of sugar that they would have shipped up the coast. The white ice glaze certainly goes well with this name. Of course we have to climb it.

I’m too cold to put crampons on, so we go around to the easier sloping side. My jaw and other muscles are clenched tight against the cold. You seem to be doing just fine. It figures. You were raised near this latitude.

The wind howls from the other side of the stone. I make the first ascent, semi-clumsy with cold and eager to get back to the car before that tingling in my feet becomes frostbite. The wind smacks me head-on at the top, rips away at what little warmth I have left.

I beat a fast retreat, allowing myself to butt-slide on some of the gentler sections of ice. I hop from foot to foot as you make your own climb.

Perspective is everything again. From down here, the barren stone outcrop looks like it could be some oxygen-starved peak above the Tibetan highlands. It is easy to imagine the month-long trek, the thousands of feet of elevation gain, lost toes and fluid in the lungs — all for the chance to stand on some godforsaken rock. I say that as someone who loves to climb thousands of feet to stand on godforsaken rocks. It was one of the things that I worried about when I moved to Minnesota, with its shrimpy mountains. But latitude has a way of making up for altitude. Here, we can have our rock within a 25-foot climb. The miles of tortured ice are a bonus. Also, I have someone to enjoy it with.

You reach the summit; raise the axes in a war whoop. It might as well be the top of the world.

IMG_5216
LeAnn takes on the Sugarloaf