A Sense of Style

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It is a quiet joy to see the flash of dress billow with her movements as she picks her way along the desert wash.

This is Utah.

The scale and severity of the landscape always halt me. Here are the ramparts of scorched red-rock, cutting me off from the table land. Here is the muddy Colorado, writhing between the canyon walls like some vast serpent. There lie the snow-topped mountains, half hidden in clouds. At my feet, a delicate flower emerges out of cactus thorns.

And then I must consider this extra splash of color, moving along the debris behind me.

I hadn’t seen LeAnn since November, and though we hadn’t officially been together for a while, I was thrilled when she agreed to join me on a trip to canyon country. Neither of us was seeing anyone at the time, and it is more fun to have a fellow traveller that you are in tune with.

By in tune, I don’t necessarily mean that we resonate at the same frequency — not exactly. LeAnn will wear dresses on the trail, talk about home health remedies, stop to coo over a toad that I’d practically stomped on because I was looking at the horizon, frequently calls me “The Old Man.”

I got the name because I tend to go on curmudgeonly rants about everything. It doesn’t take much to get me rolling about the insipidness of pop music, the shittyness of movies, the selfishness I see society encourage in people. The only thing missing is some heavy oaken cane for me to shake at the world in general disproval. The Old Man goes on rants, worries about safety, loses things, and dodders along the terrain, lost in thought.

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Put me in a North Face advertisement

No, there are plenty of differences between us two, but often these different frequencies find odd harmonies. Each of us sees and thinks differently than if we went out by ourselves. We do share the common goal of trying to find some measure of freedom and joy in nature.

The sense of freedom is what I enjoy about seeing LeAnn take to the trails in colorful dresses. Not much is sacrificed in terms of practicality here, excepting the occasional snag from a sagebrush or juniper branch, an added difficulty for boulder scrambles. But then, sometimes the way we do a thing is as important as the thing in itself. The rhythm of the swishing skirt makes a fine contrapunto to the desert music and somehow seems as vital as the gallon jugs of water that I’d filled earlier.

“Has joy any survival value in the operations of evolution?” writes naturalist philosopher Edward Abbey, in his book Desert Solitaire. “I suspect that it does; I suspect that the morose and fearful are doomed to quick extinction. Where there is no joy, there can be no courage and without courage all other virtues are useless.”

Abbey was talking about desert toads that reveal themselves to predators with their loud songs. The trait is seemingly maladaptive, but has value in attracting mates. Whether or not the toads appreciate their songs and find that they give meaning to their lives — I leave that question to toad scholars. What I don’t doubt is that we humans enrich ourselves when we can express what we are.

Expressing what we are sounds simple enough on paper. But when you are an Old Man, you see plenty of complications. Truth is one. It is no good to shout from the rooftop if you are shouting lies. But some people are so quick to respond or react to events that I can’t believe that they really know whether they are shouting truth, gibberish or something worse. There is also the need to make your mode of expression your own, not carrying someone else’s banner, retweeting some cliche, ignorant of what it actually stands for.

At least toads don’t have to worry about their sweet songs being co-opted into advertisements by a multinational corporation. Oh wait. Look at the beer shilling frogs in the ‘90s TV commercials. “Bud!” “Weis!” “Er!”

Expression is easy enough, but in order to make it into “self expression,” there needs to be some self involved, not just a collection of reactive impulses masquerading as a self.

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I’ll leave open the possibility that self can be enormously complicated, likely inextricable from the world around. One of the beautiful things about being human, is that we can take others’ ideas, (art, literature, conversation or whatever) process those ideas and make them our own. We can eat a banana without becoming a banana, but still benefit from the nutrients within. The same goes for how we process nature. We can commune with it, and process it on our own terms.

What I see with modern communication is that it throws so much information at us, much of it manipulative, that our internal processor is hard-pressed to keep up.  Internet access, social media, smart phones and corporate advertising beat at the doors to the self, pinging at us, pinging at us, dumping so much content that there is no time to it all absorb into self-ness. I picture a virus inserting a foreign strand of genetic code into our own identity. Suddenly, when we try to express our own ideas, we only have the tools to spew out more of the virus. And then the virus infects others. And revenue increases.

The hellish, confining nature of this system makes us long for something different, maybe a nice descent into addiction, or if that seems too extreme, a pleasant walk in nature, where we believe that we won’t hear the racket from the money-driven noise machine. Perhaps, in that place of contemplation, a clearer vision of the self will emerge.

But the advertisers and other purveyors of bullshit know how dangerous that is. When you run for the hills, they will be hot on your heels eager to subvert your desire for communion with nature into a desire to make purchases.

The purveyors tell you to snap your picture, tag yourself, and move on, making our interactions with the real world as superficial as they are in the virtual one. Perpetual distraction and dissatisfaction are good because they feed consumption and make dollars flow.

The purveyors take your warm feelings for natural beauty and redirect them into brand loyalty. They pervert the profile of Half Dome into the North Face logo; they repurpose the grandeur of El Capitan into Apple’s El Capitan operating system.

This year, Subaru clinched the title of “Sole automotive partner of the National Park Service’s Centennial”* Going to Yellowstone? Pollute it in a Subaru! 

“Our national parks embody an undeniable sense of freedom,” reads the opening to Budweiser’s partnership statement/branding opportunity with the Parks Service.*

New advertising policy put out by Parks director Jonathan Jarvis will soon allow even more opportunities for major park donors like Coca Cola, Humana, and REI to fly high their banners from from Acadia to Joshua Tree. **

If the idea of festooning a National Park with corporate logos leaves a bad taste in your mouth, consider the hordes of tourists who already walk those trails decked out in their shiny Arc’teryx shells, or paramilitary Under Armour tops to take selfies, cybernetic music blasting out of earbuds. There is expression here alright, but not self expression. It is hard to see any concept of selfhood in those who drape themselves in symbols that belong to others.

Because they have not bothered to craft their own identities, they grab all the more desperately for some T -shirt with a Jeep Grand Cherokee, or list of Tweety Bird witticisms. There’s are plenty of prefab identities available for you to buy. You can pick one one up for $15 at your local Wal Mart.

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And I’m not just picking on poor slobs who couldn’t afford the latest and greatest performance-wear.

Naturally, many of us begin to believe (but would never admit) that the more expensive the clothes we wrap ourselves in, the more value we accrue. Such walking retail advertisements have bought into a finer-crafted identity, with higher thread count and built in iPhone sleeve.

What seems especially crass to me about the omnipresence of corporate symbols in national parks, is that they remind me about the forces of money, still out there pillaging the environment I am now trying to enjoy. Even if they never get around to, say, fracking the Grand Canyon, human want, driven by relentless advertising, will ensure that there will be plenty of smog to go around, more bright lights, more pressure for billboards, helicopters and luxury lodging crowding out the natural world.

I shouldn’t let it get to me. I should just look at the canyons now. Watch the graceful eagle in flight — not the bro posturing in the camo Under Armour hoodie. Relax.

The problem is that this march of advertising, of posturing, self-important bullshit does not want me to not pay attention. It screams at me to see it, to read its words, to acknowledge its existence, when I came out here to acknowledge the existence of something far more subtle and profound. It is hard to hear truths whispering like leaves of grass when a car salesman screams into your other ear.

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And I do believe that many of us get so caught up in broadcasting ourselves (or rebroadcasting others) that we don’t spend enough time listening. We demand others see us and become addicted to their validation (some  run for president.) If validation is the best thing that comes from self-expression, then the matter of whether such expression is a true expression of the self becomes secondary.

Above all, I think that people who want to escape the grind should quiet down for a minute out there instead of bringing the grind and all its tedium into nature. See what it feels like to walk a mere hour without saying a word or without looking at a screen. Note what thoughts arise.

I’m not the first person to complain about what people wear, whether on the golf course or in the wilderness.

In Backwood’s Ethics by east coast naturalists Guy and Laura Waterman, the authors suggest that people who seek out nature should tone down their wardrobes. A neutral-colored tent is better than a flashy orange one, they argue. A bright-colored tent stands out over long distances, and draws attention to itself, clashing, instead of harmonizing with the outside environment. The argument resonated with me, even though I’d recently bought a pair of day-glo ski pants partly because, hey, they looked cool.

Even as one part of me nodded along with the Waterman’s curmudgeonly wisdom, I also thought about how many animals are as vain, or far vainer than the Eddie Bauer acolytes or North Facers who walk the trails.

If a male cardinal (the bird, not the clergymen) struts out on a branch in his finest red feathers, shouldn’t we call him out on his vanity? If he insists on chirping his song from the highest branches, why should he be less annoying than that dude with the pocket speaker system playing Top 40 singles near the waterfall? If the birds sing because of some reel imprinted in genetic memory, it’s all the more reason to disdain their unoriginality. The same goes for those loud toads Abbey mentions. They are just another pack of attention mongers.

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I’ll check myself before my argument becomes any more absurd. It is easier to acknowledge that there are times, when it is appropriate to call attention to ourselves in nature, just as there are times when it surely isn’t. Artists like Cristo and Jeanne-Claude who once erected thousands of orange gates to in Central Park, used a bold sense of style to complement the winter landscape, not diminish it.

We humans still rely on expression to project ourselves, sing ourselves, and build bonds between others of our kind. There is a time to shut up and let nature do the talking, and many people still need to learn how. Nonetheless, we humans are also entitled to do some talking of our own, especially if we are trying to express some understanding that we developed in the time that we shut up and listened.

LeAnn, who has taught me the names of many plants and animals, shown me wild edibles and explained the different life processes happening around me, has done plenty of listening to nature. She also understands, intuitively, the need for joy.  Joy is the expression that I see in the dress moving through the desert. I see it, and believe it is her own. I permit myself to enjoy it also.

Joy need not deny that terrible things happen in the world or that difficult times can test the very core of what we believe in ourselves. It is not the unobtainable idea of a flawless world as dreamed by an advertising exec.

The desert won’t tolerate such fantasies for much time. Just keep walking into the canyons and away from your car. See how long you can believe the comforting platitudes.

You’ll learn to step carefully, if you’re going to make it through alive. You’ll need to learn how many ways the desert can kill you and how indifferent it is to your fate.

But if you are going to live, you might also learn to take joy at finding an oasis to drink from or finding a succulent prickly pear to ea., You would do well to create some kind of narrative that gives a purpose to your survival efforts.

Sometimes life needs to shine forth, unafraid and unapologetic amidst the landscape, and even bright colors can complement the world around, not detract from it.

While the sight of corporate logos on the trail speaks to me of commodification, the sight of the bright dress on the trail speaks to me of freedom. It reinforces the fact that a landscape, which offers hardship, danger and privation, can also be a place of joy — if we rise to meet it.

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Links:

* http://findyourpark.com/partners

**https://www.washingtonpost.com/news/powerpost/wp/2016/05/09/yosemite-national-park-brought-to-you-by-starbucks/

First Tracks: Ascent of Mount Emmons

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Andrew climbing up the east side of Utah’s Mount Emmons in May. The frozen Oke Doke Lake is below.

Amidst the chain stores, traffic and scalding asphalt that was Roosevelt, Utah on a late May afternoon, the snowy peaks of the Uintas Mountains to the north looked two-dimensional, a movie prop instead of a real landform.

The real world was an eternity of autos grinding down Highway 40, idling at the traffic lights, flashing blinding sun off their windshields. Stop. Go. Breathe the fumes.

I watched shoppers break sweat in the time it took for them to travel from air-conditioned truck cabs to air conditioned supermarket and fantasized about the high-country, that improbable territory where snow still lay on the slopes, ice on the lakes.

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The Uinta River flows next to our trail in the Ashley National Forest in the Uintas Mountains.

The Uintas are the tallest range going east to west in the continental US. The peaks form a wall between northern Utah and southern Wyoming, blocking roads and creating sanctuary for moose, elk and black bear — not the kind of animals people typically associate with Utah. There are even miles of tundra and muskeg — landscapes that would look right at home in an Alaska photo-album. Crowds that flock to Rocky Mountain National Park or the Tetons don’t bother with the Uintas, probably haven’t even heard of them.

Andrew, Jon and I wanted to spend four days up there, including an ascent of the 13,440-foot Mount. Emmons. Our cart was stacked with cheap, dehydrated, high-calorie food; a cornucopia of wheat bread, nuts, dried cranberries, raisins, potato flakes, pasta and flatbread. Judging by the amount of beans and broccoli we’d be hauling, the trip was bound to be a celebration of flatulence.

The whole adventure from trailhead, to summit and back would be a mere 24 miles and about 5,000 feet of elevation gain. We would camp near tree line at the Chain Lakes, which lay at Emmons’s base. As for the conditions on and around the mountain, that was anyone’s guess.

No one had been up to the Lakes so far this season, the ranger at the National Forest headquarters in Duschene told me. We could expect to find deep snow, and a good number of downed trees across the trail, she said. The trail crews would clear things out after Memorial Day.

In the meantime, no one knew how many trees had come down, exactly how many inches of snow were on the ground (going east to west there was anything from a couple inches to a couple feet at other locations) or what the snow crust was like so far. That last bit of information would be key. A strong crust would mean easy travel above the snow; weak crust could mean an exhausting slog through powder or slush.

“I’d be really interested to know what you find up there,” the ranger told me.

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Fresh buds emerge on the aspens of Uinta Canyon

The highway from the city into the foothills took us through irrigated cropland and cattle range to clumps of aspen and lodgepole pine. The trees closed in as we got higher, until they formed an undulating mat upon the hills. Clear, cold water from the Uinta River ran with snowmelt toward the farmer’s fields below. No longer did the mountain landscape seem like the two-dimensional abstraction on the Roosevelt skyline.

I stepped out of the car into crisp alpine air, rich with pinesap perfume. The campsite at the Uinta Canyon Trailhead was deserted, excepting a couple of pickups that turned around in the parking lot. Birds chirped quiet melodies from the trees. The Uinta River gurgled unseen from somewhere in the forest. Evening brought the whine of mosquitoes, persistent, rapacious. We swatted at them constantly as we went through our supplies.

I elected myself to carry dinner food, while Jon and Andrew took lunch and breakfast respectively. We sorted food and gear by headlamp, our efforts punctuated with slaps and vows against the insects.

I finished packing at 10 p.m.. I still had my tent and enormous negative 40-degree sleeping bag to take care of in the morning.

None of us would have light packs on this trip. After food, tent and clothes went in my pack, I lashed sleeping bag and water jug to the outside, pulling them tight with a shoelace. I cinched my snowshoes to the sides with nylon straps. They towered over my head like moose antlers. The whole conglomeration of stuff sagged outward like it wanted to fall apart already. I swung the pack up to my shoulders, almost fell over with the damn thing. The weight put steady pressure on my vertebrae. I was sure I’d be an inch shorter by the trip’s end.

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Monster pack in all its glory

I carried the most monstrous sleeping bag in the group and heaviest tent. Jon’s pack, also weighted with snowshoes, looked heavy as hell, but seemed almost reasonable in proportions. Andrew took the cheese, though. He carried his backcountry skies, plus the weighty plastic boots.

A hot sun and muggy temperatures by 9 a.m. made the three of us look perfectly ridiculous tromping up the trail weighted down with winter gear.

We walked in silence. The compression on my spine and pack straps cutting into my shoulders like steel bands didn’t bring out the conversationalist in me. I was dimly aware of the new aspen leaves, which simmered like gold coins on the branches overhead, though aforementioned spine compression dimmed of my appreciation of the aesthetics.

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The hazards of a downed tree

Fallen trunks and branches confirmed the ranger’s prediction about blow downs in the trail. Sometimes there would be space for us to walk around; more often, we would have to ease ourselves over the obstacles, watching out for limbs that wanted to spear our flesh and the weight on our backs that wanted to swing us, crashing into the mess of branches.

Two miles into the hike, my back and shoulders howled with pain. The real climb hadn’t even started. We rested by stream and ate food, less for energy, more for the psychological comfort against the grim toil of the pack slog.

A bridge above the river, marked the start of a thousand-foot climb out of the canyon along a series of switchbacks.

Sweat poured down my face, drenched my back. The first patches of snow appeared in the shadow of the trees.

Jon, who was walking in front, turned around and whipped a snowball. The missile flew over my head, flinging a couple ice crystals into my face. I raised my ski pole at him menacingly, but he was smiling.

“I got him!”

I looked behind me to where Andrew was brushing snow off his shirt. It had been a direct hit.

“Asshole,” he said.

 

The ocaissional snow patches became longer, deeper stretches along the trail after we crossed into the High Uintas Wilderness. We started sinking in.

Nylon gaiters above our boots helped keep snow out, but not forever. Melting slush near the ground found its way to our feet. Mine sloshed in an icy bath within half a mile.

We stopped briefly next to the roaring Krebs Creek where Jon discovered that the bottom of his boot had begun peeling off. We walked on.

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Breaking near the Chain Lakes

Snow made the trail hard to see, and hindered progress. If the ground had been completely covered, we might have put snowshoes on, but there was still enough bare dirt and rock that we didn’t want to try it.

Andrew pointed out a stream that looked like the one on the map leading out of the Chain Lakes. If we left the trail to follow it, there would be less snow than we would find in the trees, which harbored troublesome drifts in their shade. At least that was the theory.

Unfortunately, even the bare ground around the stream was soggy with snowmelt. Pools and runoff lurked beneath the grasses, creating ice-water booby traps for our feet. We stumbled along snowy cobbles with brush slapping at our eyes.

We stopped more than once to check our position on the map. It was already getting on toward early evening and it seemed like we should be in the neighborhood of the Chain Lakes. A mountain of bare gray rock and desolate flanks of snow rose emerged from the pines in front of us. It could only have been Mount Emmons.

 

When we came to Lower Chain Lake, we found several dozen acres of dark blue waves and flat, white ice. The water was low, and the sun-warmed rocks along the shore had melted off most of the snow so we could walk easily there.

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Unique rocks like these stood out along the lakeshore and along the streambeds

The grace period ended when we climbed up to Middle Chain Lake. We pushed through a grove of trees, sinking thigh-deep in snow, fighting branches and clambering over logs.

A pine branch whacked against the top of my pack. Down came snowshoes, sleeping bag and water jug. I loosed a string of profanity. My frustration with the hours of fighting drifts and terrain boiled over into fury at a low hanging branch, whose only crime was growing out at the perfect height to fuck up all my careful rigging. I fought to reattach the items quickly, angry that I was delaying the group. Of course I did a shitty job, and it all swung down again. I put the pack back on the ground, calling it many things that were unfair; tied everything properly, and set off to catch Andrew and Jon.

They were at Middle Chain Lake, making their way through the deep drifts gathered at the southern end. It dawned on me that I no longer heard the familiar sloshing sound behind me.

Christ! The water jug!

I had forgotten to reattach it.

I threw my pack down and went back into the woods, where I found it about 200 yards away. 26 years old and apparently, I’m already doddering on the precipice of senility.

Meanwhile, Andrew and Jon settled on a campsite on a dry area near the woods. We set up tents and cooked dinner on my stove. The game plan was to wake up early and start along the path to Emmons before the heat of the day softened up the snow crust.

 

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Morning view of Emmons from Middle Chain Lake

We had an oatmeal breakfast and a late start. It was almost 9 a.m. by the time we set out. Jon and I wore our snowshoes, Andrew slid on his skis with skins on the bottom so that he could climb uphill. By the time we reached the north end of Upper Chain Lake, there wasn’t much now so we shifted out of our snowshoes. For Andrew this mean switching out of his skis and boots and putting their weight on his back, a lengthy process.

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Approaching the mountain from Fourth Chain Lake

By the time we made it to Fourth Chain Lake, it was around 10 a.m. and we still hadn’t begun the main part of the climb. We’d had two ideas about how to get up the mountain. There was a southerly route up a bowl and then up the east face of the mountain. This was the route a Summit Post contributor recommended for the summer months, but I had my doubts as to whether we wanted to try the steep ascent in ice and snow. Our other option was a ridgeline to the north, which would involve a short, very steep ascent followed by a moderate ascent to the summit between two cliffs.

We’d been leaning toward the first option because the map showed a very steep climb to the top of the ridge. The climb looked more doable when we actually saw it. There would be a scramble up a tilted boulder field for about 500 feet to a steep cornice of hardened snow at the top. I thought I could see some moderate sections where we could climb over.

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View of Emmons from the side of the ridge

Boulders the size of refrigerators shifted beneath my boots as I picked my way up the slope.

I heard a thunder fall of rocks down below, Jon’s cries, “Andrew! Look out! Look out!” Nobody was hurt, but it was a reminder that we walked upon uncertain ground.

The cornice was perhaps 10 feet tall, with a couple sections that were sloped gently enough to climb. I went to one of these spots and kick-stepped my way up the snow crust. Eventually the slope got steeper and I had to punch my fists in for more purchase. After I topped out, I made sure to get away from the edge right quick.

Andrew and Jon followed. The ridgeline afforded stunning views of the Uintas to the north, which included Kings Peak, the tallest mountain in Utah (Emmons is fourth, according to Peakbagger.com, and less than 100 feet shy of Kings in elevation, though much easier to access.)

We were well above the trees now, utterly exposed to the wind. I began to feel the altitude too. All of us slowed as we wound among the snowfields and up the rocks. More than once, I thought we had reached the top, only to find a false summit.

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You can’t trust the ground you walk on

Almost two hours after we reached the ridge, we came upon the pile of rocks a battered wooden stick, and elk antlers that marked the highest point. There was a steel ammo can nearby containing a poncho, Gatorade powder and dehydrated food.

Take what you need, someone had written, feel free to donate your own stuff.

A ziplock bag held a logbook of past expeditions. The last entry was in September, 2013. Our entry: May 17. It had been about 9 months since anyone had summited, according to the records.

From on high we could gaze upon the slopes below us, down to the tundra wastes of grass and bog. I could replay our journey up from the Chain Lakes. The gutter of Uinta drained out to the green fields above Roosevelt, the gray-brown sage landscape south of Highway 40. Maybe someone in town was looking up at the movie set mountains, wondering if anything was up there.

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Andrew and Jon consult the map at the summit
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View from Emmons looking down into a bowl to the south

 

Andrew who had hauled his backcountry skis this far, was determined to ride them down. Jon and I didn’t have this speedy option, but could still descend rapidly if we glissaded down the east face. I just didn’t want us to descend too rapidly — not falling end over end, not in an avalanche.

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Andrew prepares for the ski descent

A couple miles away we could see streaks going down the side of a bowl, where a couple tons of snow had broken off and plunged toward the bottom. The incline was much steeper there, but it was still something to watch out for.

The two of us without skis walked carefully down the steepest, most hazardous part of the slope, while Andrew glided in a conservative traverse. When the slope lessened, he let her rip for several hundred yards, in a tight series of turns. Jon and I went straight down on our feet and butts, with kicking up trails of loose powder.

The slope became too gradual for sliding, so I ended up running with big sliding steps, chasing after Andrew who was already at the bottom of the pitch.

“My shoe came apart,” Jon said.

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Jon walking down off the summit

Sure enough, the heel was completely detached from the rest. Fortunately the strap at the bottom of Jon’s gaiter helped hold it in place. I reinforced this with a shoelace cinched over top and bottom. It wasn’t pretty, but good enough to hold.

Shortly after, Andrew started back up the slope, looking for keys that had fallen out of his pack further up the slope. Shoe, keys, and water jug: none of us would walk away from the trip without owning some calamity.

Andrew found the keys about a third of the mile up the slope. We’d barely lost half an hour, but still faced the challenge of slopping through thigh-deep corn mush snow the remaining miles to camp.

A set of zig-zags and two parallel gouges marked our passage down the slope of the mountain behind us, the first tracks of the year.