On Blasted Seas: A February Kayak Surfing Safari in Washington

“Ahh, I’m hoping to avoid that happening to me,” John said.

He was looking at the back of a heavy-set man in a plaid jacket, lurching awkwardly, painfully, from his vehicle across the gas station parking lot toward the doors of the convenience store.

The vision was quickly gone, as we were speeding down the highway out of Port Angeles, two beautiful fiberglass kayaks strapped to the roof of John’s truck. There was no way to assess whether we had seen a man who’d eaten a few too many convenience store Twinkies over the years, or whether other factors like injury or illness had robbed him of the ability to walk easily.

Either way, even the brief sight of those tortured steps made an impression on John who, at 65, has seen plenty of his peers go down the road of decreasing ability and decreasing will to be active. He’s nowhere near slowing down though, keeping active through mountain biking, road biking and going dancing with his wife.

And he still hits the water in his sweet fleet of kayaks multiple times a week, winter weather be damned. He logs eight-mile downwind runs in a dagger-fast surf skis on Lake Crescent, regularly plies Port Angeles Harbor, amidst the log booms and harbor seals. Last fall, he and a friend paddled across the Strait of Juan de Fuca to Vancouver Island and Victoria, British Columbia. (some 30+ miles.) When he needs a little more adrenaline, he’ll take his squat 14-foot plastic kayak, “rock gardening” — a pastime that involves veering the boat into, out of and over rocks when the waves are crashing in.

The waves would be crashing in today, alright. The forecast called for a strong wind flowing out of the Fraser Valley in Canada, howling down the Haro Strait to our launch at Freshwater Bay — a few miles west of Port Angeles. The National Weather Service had posted a Small Craft Advisory. Even so, the weather in Port Angeles was mild and windless. Feeling complacent, I only put a thin layer on beneath my drysuit before I headed out the door.

The tree branches did not clash, nor was there any other sign of wind as we drove along the road down to the put-in. It was only the last turn in the road, before I saw the trees begin to sway. Then I looked at the sea.

“Whoa!”

There were six-foot slabs of water rolling in, toppling over themselves in blasts of angry foam. The shallow, tidal beach only extended the violent interplay between land and water — row, upon row of breakers snarling into shore. When strong westerlies trouble the Strait of Juan de Fuca in the summertime, Freshwater Bay is usually a patch of calm. On this first day of February, it was the rodeo.

Further out, the sea hardly seemed kinder, with the waves rebounding off of Bachelor Rock creating more tumult. Even mightier waves loomed up and broke over themselves just beyond the bay.

To the north lay the snowy flanks of Mount Baker. It seemed to me that some hoary war god was pointing his finger at us from the summit, whipping up the armies of the sea against our launch.

John and I consulted. The waves were bigger than we’d expected, but we were confident we could punch our way off the beach in his 16-foot fiberglass kayaks. Maybe we wouldn’t be doing any rock gardening today. Maybe we wouldn’t even go out of the bay, but just getting on the water would be a worthy adventure, one with an exciting opportunity for surfing off the beach.

Before we headed out, both of us put some extra layers on beneath our drysuits for warmth. I slapped on a rain jacket too so that I could use it’s hood. John didn’t bring any head gear, but I gave him a wraparound hood, that I’d salvaged from one of my old jackets.

“Only trouble with these hoods is that they cut out peripheral vision,” I said.

Nonetheless, we agreed that it was going to be helpful to have as many warm layers as possible on this blowy February day.

I was also glad to have someone like John on board, who has spent years kayak surfing off the Olympic Peninsula and has experience in kayak rescue and other gnarly situations. An ex-prison guard (you would never guess from his easy smile or ready laughter), his job required that he be able and willing to restrain, incapacitate or kill violent inmates. This reality didn’t make him into anyone’s hardhearted authoritarian. In fact, he sympathized for the prisoners he watched, and thought it was all too easy for people in desperate circumstances to make the wrong decision. He is passionate about the marine environment and worries about what global  warming is doing to the waters that he plays on.

For the first part of the day’s game, we set our boats on the damp sand, just within reach of the waves, got in, snapped sprayskirts into place, started scooting ourselves toward the melee.

 

The tide in shallow Freshwater Bay goes out  quite quickly, and we had to scoot ourselves after it. Finally, a big swell of water lifted me off the sand, and I started paddling immediately, taking no time to put my hands into the insulating neoprene pogies on the paddle shaft. At first, the kayak’s upturned bow sliced easily through the sub-waves. Then, one of the larger breakers crashed right in front of me, burying me chest-deep in frothing water.

The kayak slowed, but I dug back in with the paddle, pushing myself forward. To lose momentum was to give up the game and get thrashed back into the beach.

I got to the face of the next wave — a taller one — just as it steepened before the break. This time my bow pointed up at the sky, and I dug in against gravity with ferocious strokes. The kayak nosed over the top, and bellyflopped onto the water on the other side. The wave exploded behind me. The next few waves were in varying stages of collapse, either allowing me to paddle over them, or else breaking over my deck.

 

Once we were away from the main break-zone, we were in less immediate danger of getting smashed up by a wave, but the waves were still steep, and more than a few of the bigger ones were still still break over themselves unpredictably — a nasty surprise for a kayaker.

“Keep looking to your left,” John advised.

Aye aye, Captain. I flipped my hood down so I could get a wider arc of vision.

The prettiest kayaking out of Freshwater Bay is arguably along the rock cliffs and sea caves to the west, but in these conditions, that area was sure to be a breeding ground for treacherous reflector waves and sneaky breakers coming over the reefs.

We opted to go east toward the mouth of the Elwha River, where there would be a sandy shore. Before our bows, Klahhane Ridge rose up in a snowy 6,000 foot wall above Port Angeles. It was backlit, but spectacular as always.

I kept looking to the left. The steep waves were forever on the cusp of rolling over. I would lean into them, and support myself by sinking my paddle into their sides with a high brace. Here and there I would accelerate my boat or slow down to avoid a surprise breaker. As I watched John’s boat disappear and reappear behind waves, I contemplated how difficult it would actually be for one of us to rescue the other if one of us capsized. Yes, it was safer that there were two of us, but as the seas got more wild, we had look out for ourselves, and keep an eagle eye on the water.

“There’s a break zone above that reef over there,” John called.

That patch of sea on our right was a place I knew because it usually offered calm. During the summer months, bull kelp growing off the sunken rocks there tended to dampen the incoming waves. Now the kelp was gone, and the waves were stacking up over the shallow water. Bathymetry was no academic concern here. Water depth had everything to do with whether we could glide over the waves or whether they would crash on top of us.

On our other side, there was another line of breakers, easily-eight feet high. Impossible to tell whether there was another reef there, or else some weird wave convergence/amplification happening in that zone. What was clear was that we were paddling a shaky corridor of relative safety between two much more violent zones. There was little to suggest that the big violent breakers further out couldn’t push their way in toward our current position, making for dangerous paddling.

John and I opted to turn about. The current in the strait was going west with the ebbing tide, carrying us back toward Bachelor Rock quickly.

Here and there were patches of fizzy water where tiny bubbles danced to the surface. Danger! These marked places where waves had broken recently and were likely to do so again quickly. I swerved my boat around one of these bubble patches, just before another wave came up and crashed in the exact spot.

“Wind’s dying down!” John announced.

The air was calmer now and warmer, though the sea was still bucked and heaved.

Perfect surfing conditions. We pointed our bows at the shore and waited to catch a ride. I flipped my tracking skeg down for better handling (John’s was disabled from gravel that had clogged the mechanism during  our seal launch off the beach,) started paddling tentatively in the wave direction..

The first wave nudged my boat along for a couple yards before it surged past me, but no matter, it gave me the acceleration I needed to catch the next one. I felt the back of the boat lift up as the bow sunk down into the trough. Leaning forward, to bring the weight of the boat to the bow, I paddled hard, then cut my speed so I wouldn’t overshoot. In no time, the wave was whipping me into a broach — turning me sideways in spite of the skeg and a hard stern rudder stroke.

I flipped my weight onto the other side, leaning straight into the wave face as it broke around me. The paddle fought for purchase in the aerated water. My head and torso were horizontal now. I jammed hard on the paddle and instinctively flipped my hips, sending myself back upright to finish my ride in triumph.

“Whoooo!”

The wave petered out and I quickly swung my boat around so that I could meet the next one head on. I noted that I had a slight ache in my shoulder blade due because of my sloppy high brace. Shoulder dislocation is one of the most common injuries that happens to kayak surfer. The risk is lessened by making sure to keep the paddle well in front of your torso while bracing, however. John and I paddled back out a few more times to catch some more waves. I had some good rides, but none as adrenaline filled as the first.

 

The wind began to blow again, knocking down the swells and diminishing their surfability. John and I paddled further off shore to check out the water around Bachelor Rock. The small sea-stack, with its lone, wind-snarled pine at the top, creates the western boundary of the bay. It is often a place where the currents muddle into each other and the waves get weird.

Today, Bachelor was sending out reflector waves — almost as tall as the primary waves — out at a right angle into the wave direction. Where the crests overlapped, it created steep, short-lived towers of water, followed by a sudden drop-off. The water was difficult to predict or brace off of.

I intended to get a small piece of the action by cutting close, but not too close, to Bachelor and then turning back into the bay. But circumstances were going to give me a closer look than I wanted.

As I approached the rock, I realized that the tidal current was beginning to push me into the worst water. A jolt of adrenaline went through my system along with the realization I needed to act quickly and precisely to get out. I swung my bow to the northeast and paddled hard. Meanwhile, I had to make constant micro-braces with my paddle blade as the water rose and fell randomly around me. John matched my course from a distance, though I could only catch glimpses of his boat through the waves. The only path back into the bay was through a break zone, which I traversed diagonally with strokes timed to avoid the breaks. Luckily, nothing crashed on top of me and I got back into the safer water unscathed.

But where was John?

I swung my boat 180 degrees, and saw him very close to Bachelor, his kayak rising and dropping in the chop. His expression was etched in concentration as he made quick adjustments with his paddle, reading and responding to the chaotic water. Eventually, he spat himself back out from the danger zone.

He, like me, had drifted closer to the action than intended, and gotten a nice shakeup out of the deal. With the hood cutting down his peripheral vision, he’d been caught unawares while turning his boat around, looked up to find himself right up next to Bachelor and in extremely chaotic water.

 

Both of us had adrenaline pumping through our systems. Once we were out of the danger zone, the fear had left and reckless joy rose in its place.

We surfed back into the beach, loaded the boats, cold but triumphant.

John had met plenty of young people, he said, that look down on sea kayaking as a slow, boring sport. But he knows better.

True, many of John’s friends prefer to go out on the calm days and take their time. They don’t necessarily jump to join him when there is a small craft advisory or gale warning. Nor does he mind such easy days.  He  takes satisfaction from the calm concentration required for the perfect paddle stroke — the torso twist, the pressure on the foot pegs, the timing of the blade.  Even when nothing seems to happen on the water, he is not bored.

The crystal calm days and small craft advisories, each have their virtues and opportunities for play. Play, as he has frequently told me, gets top priority in his retirement.

After we unloaded the kayaks at his house, I’d be getting to work, while he had plans to go biking while the sun was shining and the sky was bright. We drove away from the boat ramp with Mount Baker and the churning seas in the rearview.

There would be other days for quiet paddling.

 

Moments on Lake Ozette

Jarrett paddling on Lake Ozette

Some January day.

Jarrett and I stood amidst gear and kayaks on the shores of Lake Ozette — the biggest lake in Olympic National Park, at the north-westernmost corner of Washington, about to launch an overnight trip.

And lo! The sun was hot on my arms. Insects were flitting about. I felt, maybe a little bit silly, that I had brought the drysuit, neoprene sprayskirt, various and sundry items of hardcore cold water adventure.

This was warmer than half of the trips we had guided this summer.

“I can’t believe I went skiing yesterday,” I said.

The chest deep powder at Hurricane Ridge was a couple hours drive away, but was worlds removed from this all-too-pleasant lake front. The water was glass.
Jarrett wanted to know if I had brought sunscreen. I hadn’t. Psychologically, I’d been preparing for wind-whipped waves and sleety rain, not the possibility of a tan.

Jarrett slipped into his drysuit so that he could comfortably launch his kayak in the cold water. I was no mood to steam cook myself in Gore-Tex, and opted for shorts and a thin synthetic layer beneath my life vest.

No one said “Climate Change,” but on such an aberrant day, how could you not think about the warming planet and the new realities that it will impose upon our lives.

January might yet become the best season for kayaks.
And it will be just as well, because at least there will be something to do as skiable snow goes the way of the dodo.

Note to up and coming outdoor business owners: Maybe it’s time to start phasing out the skis. Kayaks will have the edge soon enough.

The snow will just keep shrinking up the mountains. Meanwhile, exciting new waterways are going to open up in low-lying places like Florida, Louisiana and New York City. Sure, the water may be a sludge of sewage, decay and industrial effluvia, but as long as the pH doesn’t get low enough to melt boats, you will probably still be able to float over it.

Think about the windfalls awaiting the entrepreneur who sets up the first guided kayak tour through Lower Manhattan.

“And this is the old New York Stock Exchange, where the short-term greed and willful ignorance of investors, abetted by a complicit government, helped bring the Great Flood. Hey, who wants to hit the snack raft for a New York pretzel?”

No one else had gotten the memo about the perfect weather it seems, because there were no other boats that we could see, no other vehicles at the boat launch into Swan Bay.

Jarrett launched first onto the smooth blue water. I made a couple adjustments to my gear and paddled after him. Within a couple minutes, I caught up to him. He had gravitated to a small shady spot behind some trees, where he’d have relief from the sun.

“You see that?” He gestured lazily.

A bald eagle perched in the branches above, scanning the water with its watchful eyes. It would be the first of many eagles we saw on the trip.

“I’m glad you got us out here,” I said.

 

The trip idea started less than 24-hours ago, when I’d called Jarrett to ask if he’d wanted to hit the water for a day. He was watching football, and said he’d call me back. When my phone rang again, I half-expected to hear that he’d be busy.

“You want to do an overnight on Lake Ozette?”

“Tomorrow?” I asked.

“Yeah.”

“Hell yeah!”

Lake Ozette had been on his to-do-list for a while, partly because you can combine the paddle with a two-mile hike over to a remote beach on the Pacific Ocean. I was stoked to some kind of combination adventure. Moreover, I had a strong itch to get out of town for some time away from the hellish news cycle and a fuzz of wintertime blues.
On the road, the dark clouds around Port Angeles began to melt off. Within 45 minutes, there were blue skies overhead. Highway 112 took a serpentine route along the Strait of Juan de Fuca through a series of hairpin turns and jackknife hills. The mountains of Vancouver Island to our north glimmered with sunlit snow.

“Whooo! That’s beautiful.”

“I can’t believe this weather.”

“Awesome!”

Led Zeppelin on the stereo was the perfect compliment to our buoyant spirits.

“It’s been a long time, been a long time, been a long time!”

Indeed. I hadn’t been in a kayak since November.

The highway would continue out toward Neah Bay and Cape Flattery, on the northwestern-most tip of the continental U.S.

Before we reached this juncture, we hung a left onto a little-traveled backroad. Trees, thick with moss lolled over silty creeks. It was life-on-life, Washington’s bayou country.

Boxy metal gates blocked gravel roads that accessed logged out hillsides. We entered the National Park a couple hundred yards away from the boat launch.

Only half the lake shore is public land, and several logging cuts are visible from the water. I was grateful for the sparse number of houses.

The still water and the lack of people made it possible to perceive subtle cues from the environment.

As Jarrett and I paddled out of Swan Bay into the broader lake, we heard the distant sound of breaking waves. It was the Pacific Ocean — close to two miles off the west shore, but sounding close enough to be just over the next rise. The tumult of countless breakers blended into a white blanket of shushing, thundering agitation as thousand-mile swells threw themselves against the continent.

What a contrast to the miles of stillness we saw before our bows. A loon cried out from somewhere.

“Man! I am sweltering inside this drysuit.” Jarrett announced.

“That’s funny. I feel just about perfect right now,” I said. “This shirt and shorts are breathing great.”

“Have you felt the water yet?” Jarrett asked. I dipped my hand in, and it was icy.

“If someone were to tip you over right now, you’d wish you were in a drysuit.”

I made no further comment and gave Jarrett’s boat plenty of room.

Off of Tivoli Island’s south side

We steered around Garden Island and Preacher’s Point. Many of the names on the map recalled the Scandinavian settlers who lived here in the 19th century. Often they paddled boats made by the nearby Makah tribe. Excavations have recovered human habitation in the area going back 2,000 years.*

No sign of those past inhabitants now as we paddled our plastic boats over the still water. We set our sites on Tivoli island, a couple miles down the way, where we thought we might camp. Sure enough, there was a well established site on the north end of the island with firewood lying on shore.

We paddled a quick loop around to the island’s south side to see if there were any spots that still had the sun, but no dice. Jarrett was down to see about sites on Baby Island, about a mile off, but I felt like we had a pretty good thing on Tivoli and voted that we start getting things set up sooner rather than later.

A dim realization had begun to rattle my confidence, as I thought about what I had (and hadn’t) packed.

I took out my dry bags and the bear canister. There was my stove. Ah, but where was the fuel? I remembered that I decided to take the fuel canister out of the can to save space and pack it elsewhere. Unfortunately, I’d failed to follow through on that last important detail.

“So how do you feel about a cook fire tonight?” I asked.

“Sure, but we can just use your stove,” Jarrett said.

“Well, you see what happened was…”

Jarrett might have been a bit annoyed, because I’d told him he didn’t need to bring his stove. Nope, Tom had it covered.

“Good thing we aren’t in the mountains,” Jarrett muttered. “You said you were going to bring your stove.”

I lamely pointed out that I had brought the stove; it was the fuel that I’d left in the car.

“No sweat. I’ll get a fire going no problem,” I said. I knew it was going to be a pain in the ass getting that fire started.

Sure there was wood everywhere, but most of it was damp. The grim reality I’ve encountered is that campfires on the Olympic Peninsula require generous amounts existential struggle and smoke inhalation.

I started by cutting up sections of logs and shaving wet bark from dead twigs with my knife.  After 45 minutes of gathering, I had sorted out various-sized piles of wood and arranged a cross-hatched nest of tiny twigs for kindling. Everything looked nice and boy scout-worthy. Now, the fun part.

I brought out one of my cotton balls soaked in petroleum jelly, ignited it with flint and steel, and used a stick to nudge it below my twig pile. Orange flame leapt up promisingly. The twigs were burning! The flames climbed higher, and I realized that the twigs were already almost all burned over now. Not what I wanted.

I threw more tiny twigs onto the pile, trying to get them over the fading licks of flame before they went out.  More tiny twigs. I started blowing desperately. Smoke was everywhere. I put my face to the ground to inhale from the puddle of clean air and rose back to the dying blaze for fire CPR. The twigs began burning again, and I tried to get some thicker, longer-burning twigs on the scene. They wouldn’t light of course.

My reputation was on the line and I was not going to let cold dinner be on me.
] I teased more tiny twigs into place. Tentative progress. Breathed the smoke. Cursed the fire. Blew more. Cheered as the the flames climbed up again. Tiny twigs. I cursed the fire, as it seems to change its mind. Blew on the fire. Applied bigger twigs.

As soon as I had flames that lasted more than 20 seconds, I grabbed a pot full of water and held it over the blaze.

“Or we could just use my stove,” Jarrett offered.

“You brought your stove?” I practically exploded.

“I thought I’d mentioned that.”

“Well, now that I’ve got this going, we’re damn well cooking over this fire.”

A fire with kayaks
And with dinner cooking

Because the bear can (mandated by the Park Service) only made room for my smallest pot, the meal was multiple courses, including pasta with bouillon cubes, an instant cup of pad thai, and some Spanish rice — with parsley garnish, fattened by the small canister of oil I’d brought along.

Jarrett took over fire duties, transforming my humble cook fire into a hearty camp blaze.

Venus flashed onto the scene first, leading the charge of the starlight brigade. Stars upon stars popped into existence above our fire — little sparks, the fine dusting of cosmic flame traced across the firmament.

The lake caught them, showed the sky its reflection. Even that still, dark water could not master the subtleties of heavenly detail. And I suppose it is the same with us, whether we aim our camera lenses skyward or try to encapsulate profundities with language. The thing itself, the present moment, holds the richest detail.

Earlier, I had watched the shifting gradients of color on the lake as the sun went down. Green blue in the west marched, seamless to the deep dark blues on the eastern shores. Wavelets crisscrossed themselves at the corner of the island, came to shore in the shape of diamonds. Gravel had moved away from this little place of interference and left a corridor of bare sand.

These and many other tiny aspects of the dynamic scene in front of me, danced inside my mind, which suddenly seemed a much bigger place than the night before, when I had been reading articles off a computer screen. The world seemed vaster and more full of possibilities.

And yet, the sunlight would banish the celestial tableaux from the lake’s surface. The delightful feeling that I had stepped closer to reality would also fade. It was an appreciation that required repetition, like Sunday Mass. If one can only fully appreciate the stars while under them, it is important to maximize that time.

Crossing wavelets bend around a snag in the lake
 Sunrise brings glitter paths to the lake surface
Kayak deck-mounted map showing Ozette and the nearby Pacific Ocean

Morning came with cloudy skies. It wasn’t raining, fortunately.

I went out to get the bear can holding our food. You wouldn’t expect the bears to be out in January, but I learned later that the bears on the part of the Peninsula didn’t really hibernate, because it never got deep cold. A local at a diner explained that the island had been visited by forest creatures. During calving season, local deer would swim out there to give birth, hoping to escape predators. But at least one bruin had gotten wise. The man had seen it swimming out there — probably with a hankering for some tender venison.

Sure enough, there were fresh deer tracks along the shore, but no sign, fortunately, of bears.

We made oatmeal with Jarrett’s stove, packed down the tent, loaded our boats and hit the water.

There was a strait shot across the water to where we would find our trail to the Pacific. Jarrett suggested we cut in a little sooner so we could paddle up the shore. In doing so, we saw what was easily a dozen bald eagles.

They perched in the branches of pines looking at the water. A couple of them took off as we got closer. Several were juveniles, lacking the distinctive bald head and white tail feathers and flashing white and brown beneath their wings. I thought back to January paddles with my dad and others on the Connecticut River, another place that draws eagles in wintertime.

Other signs of animal life included beaver-chewed branches along shore.

A sudden scurrying in the branches caught my attention. A small dark creature was running down the tree.

“Jarrett!” I hissed. “Come here and see this!”

By the time he had paddled up, the creature had vanished.

Eagle in flight
Perched Eagle

“It must have been a fisher cat,” I said. There has been a Park reintroduction program for these cagey weasel creatures, once hunted out of the Olympic Range. They are not something you spot often, and in fact, this was the second fisher, I’d seen in my life. The first time was in high school when I was running through the woods in Connecticut.

After I found out what a fisher was, I developed a respect for the little scrappers. They are tough, and will even go after porcupines.

Later, it occurred to me that I might have seen a bear cub, not a fisher. Still, the agility of the creature stuck out in my mind, and it may have been small for a bear cub this time of year. I believe that it was a fisher I saw in that tree.

The trailhead we wanted was in Ericson’s bay at the northwest corner of the lake. A small orange marker showed us where to park our boats.

We traded life vests and neoprene booties for sneakers and rain jackets. The rainforest trail was closed in by sword fern and salal shrub. A line of rotting boards offered a place to walk over the mud and soaking moss. The slick wood was as treacherous as black ice. We pushed our way through the salal, over and under fallen trees, put our feet through the oozing ground. Hemlocks, firs and giant cedars closed in  above our heads.

 

Trail challenges
The “dead end” is where our kayaks were

An hour of tromping gave way to an opening where we could see the gray waves of the Pacific.

Miles of lonely beach stretched to our north and south. Rock escarpments rose up in the distance. There was only one other hiker on the beach. He probably came in from a different trail and was far off anyhow. Another eagle cut through the sky overhead.

We ate a light lunch on a log. I went to mess around at the edge of the foamy waves.

There were so many patterns from nature here, including the lines of the waves, pods of bubbles, the arrangement of the small rocks along the sand, and the lines and dips that that the water carved around them.

There were also abandoned buoys, tangles of nylon rope, netting, globs of shattered styrofoam blown out over the sand, countless empty bottles. Here was one of the most remote beaches in the lower United States, and yet it too was part of our trash-heap ecosystem. As Jarrett pointed out, the remoteness of the beach also meant that it didn’t have the parks and recreation department, the local volunteers and other do-gooders who would clean up the refined sands in front of a block of beach hotels.

View of the Pacific
Foam and cliffs
Big box ‘o beach trash

The lot of this did detract from the wild beauty of the beach, but fortunately, there had been plenty of wild beauty to start with. As in the night before, I had the opportunity to bask in the wonder of a vast and natural place.

We left the beach, having not explored much of it and I was fine with that.

If left some time to explore some other islands and camp spots along the lake for the next time.

Though, really, sometimes you don’t know if there will be a next time. I don’t mean that in the apocalyptic, kayaking down Wall Street sense — though I am severely concerned about the health of our planet — but mainly in terms of the ups and downs of our lives: the sickness, the health, long workweeks and yes, the reality that life is a fragile thing, easy to snuff out.

To Jarrett, who has had some close calls in his day, getting out on the water or into the mountains affirms that he is doing it right. Time outdoors is an invaluable facet of a life that also involves work he takes pride in and a committed relationship.

Keep hitting high notes, and it will be more likely that you will end on one.

It’s something I’d do well to remember.
* https://www.nps.gov/olym/planyourvisit/loader.cfm?csModule=security/getfile&PageID=96997

Guarding an Open Heart: Thoughts for Inauguration Day

“If ever I I have seen the sunrise, and known it’s time for bed, if ever I have breathed in deeply, and felt like I was dead … then I have not been, I have not been in love.” Soon or Never – The Punch Brothers.

Blessed is the half-light of a shrouded sun that peeps above the mountains. It casts a gold veneer upon the pavement outside the window, reveals itself to the jagged white edge of Klahhane Ridge, and brings tepid warmth into the room.

The morning drizzle has bedecked the winter branches with shimmering jewels of moisture, each containing an inverted world.

And yet it is all to easy to brush aside such wonders while water boils on the stovetop and the reality of a thousand crises intrudes upon my morning.

It often takes a physical act of will for me to stop and acknowledge that there is something grand and beautiful outside. Wonder doesn’t always crash into me. There are too many things to worry about for me to stumble through this world in gaping, childish awe. Yet, to disavow the capacity for awe is to throw away one of my most cherished qualities of being human. Better to force out a little love, than to leave true beauty unappreciated.

Amidst the madness and cruelty of the last year in politics, there has blown a hard prevailing wind of hard-heartedness, antipathy over compassion, othering of outsiders. The cold light of screens turned us away from our windows, from our neighbors.

Absolute ugliness, ignorance and vile self-interest dressed itself in the robes of practicality.

We’ve got to get tough. Who gives a damn about those trees anyway? You’re soft? We need jobs, not trees! You are brainwashed to want these people living in your neighborhood. They’re the worst. Don’t you know they are going to stab you in the back, when your back is turned? I know. You are going to have to work harder and sacrifice and fill your hearts with hate, but don’t worry about me. I’m trustworthy. I’m looking out for you.

Yet even those of us who smelled the con, are not immune. The stream of words have power over us too. They are meant to cow us, intimidate us and spend our energy at these provocations.

It is a victory for the bully and the trolls for us to see the world as a darker place, to miss more sunrises because we are caught up in a vomit of lies and outrages. If you were ever bullied in school, you might remember how words, through sheer power of repetition, can cause you to doubt yourself.

So are we, the enemies, told that we are useless, stupid and that we create no value.

They don’t want to convert us, they want to make us shut up and disappear. They want to tweak us into angry, foolish words, or better yet, violence, so that they can better turn their machinations against us. The ones who spit at beauty, could have no greater victory than to take the ugliness inside them and spread it around.

Make room for the “doers,” the Chevron corporation tells us in its self-congratulating advertisements, telling us there is something noble in mindless drilling, unchecked rapacity and little care about what consequences follow actions. 2016 was the third year in a row to set the record for highest global temperatures. Nice job doers! What else you got?

Politics has become personal. It will change how much snow you see upon the mountains in the morning, the plants and animals that you see. It has to do with who you see when you look at yourself in the mirror in the morning.

The fight back will be multi-tiered, taking place on the floors of congress, in the streets, in the paths of war machines, and machines that dig pipelines. It will take root in your everyday conversations with friends neighbors and families.

I hope we can protect our people, our planet and our values — just as we guard against the threat that darkness will pollute our hearts.

I, Amused

I’m not amused,
I mused,
So much as I am used to this

Amusement cycle.
The news:
Another thousand pages

Restlessly perused,
Or abused,
For cheap escape,

Only to cycle back
To the Abuser’s platform,
And the abused crying out.

Is it useless
Or — if I am used —
Useful

To a malevolent end?
I’m confused,
Typically ambivalent.

Should I jump off now,
Or clamp down
And ride this thing?

Unsealable: A Battle to Keep Water Out Of a Drysuit Becomes Obsession

My drysuit

Whenever I felt the first icy trickle of sea-water going down my leg, my first instinct was denial.

Water couldn’t be getting in! Hadn’t I just spent the better part of a day inhaling toxic fumes as I re-glued and re-taped my drysuit seams?

Surely it was just sweat, or else moisture that was already in the suit. But I knew I was deluding myself. There was a leak somewhere. The suspicion became certainty when I’d stand up later and feel a cup of water sloshing at the bottom of each leg.

Such was the story of this summer and into fall. Every time I thought I had finally walled off every entry point, water found a way. Then I would go back with glue and tape to find the weak point in the seams, refortifying the battlements. My war against the ravages of entropy would take up much of my physical and mental energy for the months I guided kayaks.

The perfection of the drysuit was the goal that I could never quite achieve nor quite let go of.

I knew that if I finally sealed it off, it would open new horizons for my kayaking. I would be able to knock out Eskimo rolls, perform aggressive leans with my torso half-submerged, to fall out of my boat and swim through rapids — while maintaining a dry set of clothes. The old enemies, Cold, Wet and Hypothermia, would still be a threat, but I would be able to hold them off for much longer.

 

The freedom and security that drysuits offer comes with a hefty price tag: often around $1,000. I got mine for free by way of my dad — who’d also gotten it for free from a friend. I am not sure how old the drysuit is, though I did see a picture of the same drysuit in a book from 1999. The bulk of the suit is made from breathable Gore-Tex fabric and getting in means opening up the large waterproof chest zipper, then forcing hands, feet and head through the five different latex gaskets. The process takes several minutes, and is like giving birth in reverse. There is a relief zipper at the crotch, which is very helpful, though not so much if you’ve had a breakfast of hot oatmeal and feel a movement coming on.

When I picked up the drysuit this spring, all of the gaskets were brittle and cracked. My first project was cutting them out and then gluing new ones in their place with a special marine-grade glue called Aquaseal. This meant creating forms that mimicked wrists, ankles and neck. The place where I worked as a kayak guide had an old neck form lying around, which helped immensely. I stuffed the sleeves and legs full of newspaper.

The Aquaseal was damnably sticky and had a sharp turpentine odor. The tube warned of cancer and reproductive harm. I did the work outside to ventilate. After a few minutes of working with the stuff, I felt a bit lighter and loopy. It was good to walk away. I hoped I wouldn’t have to use it much.

I inaugurated the suit for its first test run in Port Angeles Harbor where I was teaching a friend how to Eskimo roll. The performance was spectacular. I’d put a heavy parka under the suit and was so warm that I wanted to roll over into the frigid water to cool down.

Remarkably, when I took the parka off later, I couldn’t find a drop of moisture on it! Success!

 

I began incorporating Eskimo rolls into my guided kayak tours. Gradually, I began to suspect that water was getting through. It’s just sweat, I tried to tell myself. Indeed, the suit was incredibly hot to work in before getting on the water, which was one reason it was good to roll over for a good soak.

Alas, my illusions vanished after a fateful run down the Elwha River. At a certain notorious rapids section, I found myself being tractor-beamed toward the exact standing wave that I had been determined to avoid. Over I went.

Though I tried desperately to come up into a roll, the thrashing water was having none of that. I pulled the sprayskirt and popped up just in time to fall over the first ledge. I spent several seconds inside a churning white room, then popped up again before yet another drop and another appointment with a white room. I came up gasping and saw a fallen tree right in my path. Swimming like mad, I almost cleared it, but not quite. I thudded against the end of the trunk with my live vest, and bounced around the last couple of feet. After I got on land and recovered my boat, I realized I was completely soaked.

It was time to twist open the tube of Aquaseal again.

Aquaseal, Tenacious Tape repair on a seam

My knowledgeable friend, Jarrett had a novel technique for finding the leak. Wearing the suit, I ran the tube of a bicycle pump into the ankle gasket and began inflating myself to sumo wrestler proportions. Then Jarrett walked around spraying the suit with a bottle full of soapy water. Sure enough, there were a couple places along the side of the suit where we could see tiny bubbles coming out.

The problem was in the seams, where the different pieces of waterproof Gore-Tex had been stitched together. The tape had begun to strip away.

I called up the people at Kokatat to ask how I might proceed. They put me through to the repair department, where a helpful man told me I was welcome to ship the suit to Arcata, California where they would take care of it. And no doubt they would do a beautiful job, but I was in no mood to wait a couple weeks.

What if I wanted to do it myself? I persisted.

The guy recommended stuff called Tenacious Tape which could be combined with Aquaseal (both products of the McNett Corporation) to make a fairly bomb-proof seam. He’d even heard of people re-taping seams with duct tape as a temporary measure.

I hung up the phone feeling encouraged. I turned my suit inside out and got to work, using scissors to cut away pieces of the peeling seam tape. I cleaned the area with alcohol and covered it over with the Tenacious Tape and Aquaseal.

The cool thing was that this worked at sealing off the area. The next time I rolled my kayak, I didn’t feel the water coming there.

However, I later discovered other leak points.

 

It usually took me a week or two of denying the problem to realize, yes, water was coming in through the ankle now, and then I would go back with the Tenacious Tape and Aquaseal. Both products are expensive, and I have no doubt that I spent well over a hundred dollars on them throughout the summer.

The kiss of death happened when a zipper pull tab came went off the rails. Both my boss at the kayak outfit and the people at Kokatat said that the suit was screwed. I could mail it to Kokatat and they would re-do it for $200. I had a suspicion that if I did this, they would take a look at the beater suit, laugh and tell me I should try a suit that had been manufactured in the last decade.

Meanwhile, a busted zipper meant that the drysuit was next to useless. I could buy a new one or I could go back to guiding in a Farmer John wetsuit as I had for two previous seasons. I did borrow a wetsuit for a couple of days, did an Eskimo roll, and realized that even my leaky drysuit was still way better then a Farmer John. I came up out of the water frigid, and determined to make the drysuit work.

I did a little searching online for zipper repair info with mixed results. I bought a zipper repair kit from the local outdoor store and realized that I could probably work with the zipper I had if I finagled it back on. Once I got it in place, I had to glob Aquaseal and some tape back onto the ends of the zipper to make my own stopper. The fix was crude, and it was questionable as to whether it would actually keep the water out, but the first results were encouraging. I also enjoyed having my friends ask me how the hell I’d managed to get the toasted zipper back together.

But later, I found more leakage coming in. Small amounts of moisture were infiltrating. Whether it was coming through the seams or through the zipper was a good question. I reinforced both with dollops of Aquaseal.

 

I also reflected on how I’d known multiple people who’d owned drysuits that leaked. Indeed, knowing that drysuits have a propensity to leak in one place or another had made me hesitate to buy one to begin with.

Another kayaking friends in Port Angeles explained that he basically assumed that any drysuit he’d owned was bound to leak at some point. They were sensitive. It was easy to mess up the seam tape or poke a hole somewhere. For that reason, he tended to wear his wetsuit on routine trips and only break out the drysuit on longer distance trips or on outings where capsizing posed a serious hypothermia threat.

Being a sensitive beast, the drysuit requires all kinds of delicate care, including applying and reapplying a substance called 303 to the different gaskets so that they don’t stiffen up and break (the way my neck gasket broke when I stuck my head through it earlier this year and forced me to replace it.) After any trip involving salt water, I’d blast the suit down with a hose to get the salt off. I’ve also reapplied waterproofing spray to the outside of the suit. Vaseline on zippers helps keep them waterproof and makes it more likely that the relief zipper will open during a moment of need.

Such mindfulness exercises have been helpful to me as I work to cultivate diligence in myself and resist the urge to throw the drysuit off in a soggy heap at the end of a long day on the water.

 

My attempts to fortify the suit have had some success but never perfection. Water is a pernicious and determined adversary, worthy of respect.

A medieval knight might have gazed fondly upon his armor, even treasured the dings and cracks that are reminders of old battles; so do I value this Gore-Tex and latex armor that protects me from life-destroying cold. The hours I’ve invested into repairing the suit has only increased its value

I think of all the time I’ve spent and the chemicals I’ve exposed myself to just to make repairs, and it makes me think about just how much more labor and resources are required to make one of these suits. Few people who wear a drysuit are going to see the machines and people who work to put them together, but by working to repair mine, I felt as though I got a small taste of this. How much work would I be flushing down the toilet if I were to scrap the suit and buy another one?

I haven’t put the suit on for a while. Most of my winter adventures have been off the water, but I can’t help but think it would be fun to go out and see the seals again, to tool around in some January waves.

There’s a drysuit in the basement, a tube of Aquaseal in the freezer. It looks like I’ve got work to do.

Aquaseal, Tenacious Tape repair to zipper. Hmm. Looks like it could use some reinforcement.

A Doorstep Adventure From Port Angeles to the Hills

 

This is my first doorstep adventure post of the new year.

Starting in Port Angeles, I ran up to get some skis that I’d stashed up in the hills and climbed to the top of the foothills below the Olympic Mountains for a beautiful view and then a wild and wooly ride back down.

Since this was a doorstep adventure, I used no motors on my journey there and back again. Bringing the skis and boots up the day before was arguably the most harrowing part of the plan, wherein I pedaled an awkwardly weighted road bike over snow and ice.

This is also the first time I’ve tried adding video to my blog. The final product ain’t Herzog, but I already learned some stuff that I hope to try on the next go around. Setting up the camera and running back for it was actually kind of fun and added a new dimension to my time out.

I hope to add more video and definitely more doorstep adventure to the blog in the new year.

 

 

 

Daydreams and Nightmares from My 2016 Reading List.

How to Read Water: Clues and Patterns from Puddles to the Sea (Natural Navigation)

Tristan Gooley

As I lean back in my chair, my mind leaves the apartment and takes me to the deck of a Polynesian sailing vessel. I imagine lying with my back against the hard boards, eyes shut against the tropical sun. The boat rocks and pitches to the rhythm of the waves. There are clues in that rhythm that I can use to know where I am in the midst of islands that are hundreds of miles apart. I can figure out where to go.

I read about this ancient navigation method in How To Read Water, by British writer Tristan Gooley. It is a book that reveals patterns about everything from raindrops, to rivers, to the oceans and backyard puddles.

There is something very satisfying about taking something that seems random — a meandering river, say — and learn that there are laws and patterns at work. For example: a river will not flow straight for more than 10 times its width. A river will alternate between calmer pools and agitated riffles about every time the river travels a distance of five times its own width.
The fact that these are a universal law that applies to the world over calls for some awe. Indeed, I was out for a run along a brook the other day and when I counted out riffles and pools, I was amazed to see the pattern Gooley described right before my eyes.

The experience confirmed my belief that a book worth reading is one that you can put down and then go out and see the world, even a little bit differently.

Take glitter paths. The term refers to the flashing off the waves you see with sunrise, sunset, or any other light that’s low over the water.

While the the paths are beautiful enough for most of us to take a picture, we may not notice or understand why the corridor of light often bulges outward as it approaches shore. This is because the waves get higher closer to the beach as they enter shallow water.

I had never noticed this about glitter paths, but video game developers have, and will sometimes put it in their graphics. The irony is that this concept, which many of us never recognize in real life, can add verisimilitude to a fake world.
Understanding the nature of wave patterns was a crucial part of inter-island navigation for  Polynesians who had no compasses, much less the GPS and Google Maps that ease day to day navigation for us moderns.

The waves gave them the clues they needed, ones they could read by feel, laying on their backs. To imagine how this works, picture a group of rocks in the path of a steady line of waves, the waves are going to bounce and bend around the rocks in a certain pattern. Now instead of rocks, think of islands. They too cause waves to bounce and bend, to crisscross each other in certain places. Navigators in the Marshall Islands were able to exploit this pattern and could tell where they were simply by the way the waves felt beneath the boat. It took years of training. The islanders used stick diagrams to model the way that the waves moved through the island group.

Unsurprisingly, this type of navigation is a dying art, as there are plenty of other, easier ways to get from island to island..

There are still a few who can pull off the trick, however. An excellent New York Times piece describes a modern expedition that found its way through wave navigation here:

Gooley’s book, reinforced for me that meaning and richness are intermingled with the seemingly mundane trinkets like the shape of ripples or the nature of waves. Such thoughtful observation is all the more poignant now as popular awareness of nature declines, and the virtual world — with its expertly rendered glitter paths — beckons. There is much worth learning from Gooley’s careful insight into the quiet profundity of these relationships.

The Emerald Mile: The Epic Story of The Fastest Ride in History Through The Heart of The Grand Canyon 

Kevin Fedarko

Profound, which literally means deep, is definitely an appropriate word for the Grand Canyon.

Kevin Fedarko’s book The Emerald Mile, took me down below the canyon walls to the Colorado River, where it runs fast, narrow, treacherous, through monster, boat-ripping rapids. At the center of the book lies an insane quest by three dirtbag river boaters who illegally launched a fragile wooden dory at the head of the Grand Canyon during a massive, unprecedented water release from Glen Canyon Dam in 1983. The men had years of experience guiding professional boat tours in the canyon, but they knew that this time the river would be wilder and more dangerous than anything they’d ever encountered. Their goal: to set the record for the fastest decent through the 277 miles of canyon.

Like a river, the book has sections that provide high action, others that are suitable for contemplation: i.e. the history of dam building in the canyon, the demands that an expanding West place upon the watershed, a thorough explanation of the El Niño system that brought so much water down the Colorado that the structural integrity of Glen Canyon Dam itself was in doubt,

I particularly enjoyed Fedarko’s character study of the man behind the speed run, Kenton Grua, for whom the descent was less about macho oneupmanship and more about doing things right. 

Perfectionism is a common trait I’ve seen among river guides (don’t let the scraggly beards and crushed cans of PBR fool you.) This makes sense considering that many rapids will not forgive half-measures or sloppy calculation. Off the water, guides will apply the same exactitude for managing gear or making dinner. The rough edges of each operation hone down toward optimal efficiency over many trips, many seasons on the water. One guide’s idea of perfect is not necessarily the same as another’s though.

“You’re doing it wrong,” was an unofficial slogan at the raft company where I worked. As a newbie, I heard it a lot.

Therefore, Grua’s profile as “an incorrigible evangelist” and “pain in the ass,” rang true to me. Invariably, he told the other guides how they should load the boats or boil coffee in the morning. I’m sure he was annoying. His determination to do everything the best way possible also lead to amazing things.

He became the first known person to hike the length of the Grand Canyon. He had to do it right because somebody else hadn’t. The British author, Colin Fletcher wrote about his own, shorter hike within the original boundaries of Grand Canyon National Park. But the National Park was not the whole canyon, and that was a sticking point for Grua, who decided to do it to the last mile. The Grand is no mere 277 mile hike; it is a puzzle that involves knowing which shelf to walk on to avoid dead ends, finding water, and negotiating sliding talus slopes above 1,000-foot drop-offs. Grua did the whole thing.

Unlike the Brit who had irked him, Grua never bothered publicizing his achievement. “For him, it was sufficient that he had made good on his declaration that somebody needed to do it right,” Fedarko writes.

That same motivation, seemed to be what motivated him to try to set the record for fastest time through the canyon on a boat. Grua’s speed run through the Grand, was illegal but it did it right on several levels.

While he and his two buddies didn’t quite get Park Service permission for their trip, they did take the speed record away from a motorboat, validating human power over engine power.

The trip also did it right because they were taking on the river during a large dam release, and therefore experiencing what the old, untamed Colorado would have been like, before the dams went in. The damming of the Colorado is basically Original Sin for river guides and for western environmentalists like Edward Abbey. The Glen Canyon Dam didn’t just drown a canyon of unparalleled beauty, it also cheated others of the opportunity to ride rapids the way John Wesley Powell did when he led the first U.S. expeditions through the canyon.

The dam neutered the river from its once mighty heights. But when the 1983 El Niño forced the engineers at Glen to release water, the old wild Colorado reawakened and the three guides had a chance to recognize and respect the real strength of the river.

It almost cost them their lives at Crystal Rapid, where their boat flipped over on a monster wave —  “the biggest mess of whitewater that any Grand Canyon boatman, living or dead, had ever seen.” While the men thrashed inside the chaos, the nose of the dory slammed one of them right between the eyebrows.

Somehow everyone survived, and what’s more, a weary and beleaguered crew finished the run.

By riding out the river at its most violent, they set a time of of 36 hours and 38 minutes. Their non-motorized speed record would hold until this year, when several kayakers took a stab at it.

The title went to a 25-year-old Denver man named Ben Orkin who paddled a sea kayak down in 34 hours and two minutes this January. https://www.outsideonline.com/2051171/how-grand-canyon-speed-record-was-broken-twice-three-days.

I was pleased to read that Orkin also beat a motorized record from the ’90s, keeping the best canyon times in favor of human power. As the article in Outside notes, Orkin was able to set the record, even though there wasn’t the same epic amount of water coming down the river that had propelled Grua’s crew. The sea kayak moves faster in the water than a dory, though it is probably more vulnerable to capsize in whitewater.

Going back to the theme of “doing it right,” some will debate whether either of these record setting runs were noble, or foolish, vainglorious enterprise. Grua’s trip was actually illegal. Both records involved far more danger than the typical adventure down the canyon and might have triggered an expensive rescue. Like Grua, Orkin capsized in a rapid, an event that could have proven fatal.

I’m a romantic, so for me, both trips were “doing it right.” They accepted risk and hardship, and neither was obnoxiously self-promoting like many Red Bull stunts. The adventurers I respect most know that simply summiting or setting the fastest time is secondary, it’s how they do it, that interests me most of all. Adventure, like art, is an opportunity to exercise your values.

Established codes like Leave No Trace or the Ten Essentials lay out commandments for travelers to follow, but there is still plenty of room for personal judgement.

Is it better to build a small campfire or carry a gas stove? Better to carry in food on a long canoe trip or take fish from the (limited) natural environment? Is a GoPro a valuable documentation tool, or a distracting intrusion? Should the video be set to music by Jose Gonzalez or Daft Punk?

My personal code factors in carbon emissions. I will often eschew a far-flung adventure for a local one, and consider the doorstep adventure to be the best of all.

Thinking about these things (or even obsessing about them) cultivates thoughtfulness in an adventurer and adds a layer of meaning to their endeavors. Adventurers ask a lot from the wild places: they seek inspiration, purpose and to fill their hearts with beauty. The best know how important it is to give back, and that humility, that giving also becomes their reward.

The Story of Stuff 

Annie Leonard

It is a worthy goal to try and understand and respect the stories woven into rivers and canyons, but what about your smartphone’s story? Do you know the stories of the clothes you are wearing, the computer you are reading off of, the bottle you are drinking from? Do you want to know?

True, there are plenty of articles, books and documentaries that trace the origins of consumer commodities, revealing that (surprise, surprise) many of these goods arise from horrific exploitation like sweatshop labor, dangerous mines, or factories that spew toxic waste. What makes Leonard’s book rise to the top of the field is thoroughness. As a decades-long Green Peace activist, and now current head of the American branch of the organization, she has travelled around the world and witnessed the real stories behind the closeout price-tag. Often they are stories of environmental abuse, human rights violation, and exploitive development policy wherein rich countries tell poor ones how to run their economies.

On the home front, Leonard details the psychological price that consumerism has had on Americans, including more hours spent at work to keep the credit cards paid for, and less time spent enjoying family or building community.

To change those dynamics, she details ways to be a better consumer (buy less stuff and make it last) advocates for community groups and lobby the government for a policy that minimizes stuff.

To read Leonard’s book is to become skeptical of many purchases — and realize that there is always room for improvement. I used to feel virtuous for buying beer in cans instead of bottles, as cans take less energy to recycle. Leonard tweaked me here, because it turns out that manufacturing aluminum takes lots of energy and produces a lot of carbon dioxide. Recycling that aluminum also comes with a high energy cost. I haven’t bought as much beer recently.

Leonard is a big fan of bulk foods, something I try to support when I bring old oatmeal and peanut butter containers to the store to refill.

She also guns for government policy that makes corporations that make the waste pay for the disposal. Transfer stations will make you pay to throw out that old fridge with toxic coolant in its tubes, but really, shouldn’t the company that made the fridge bear the costs of disposal instead of you, the consumer? Cradle to grave responsibility is the idea. There are companies that make frivolous packages, toxic products that are next to impossible to untangle and products designed to be impossible (or damn near it) to repair. These companies should have to pay at the transfer station; not the consumer, not the city electronic waste recycling program and not the environment. If the manufacturers had to bear the costs of disposal, it would encourage them to make products that have fewer toxins, are easier to recycle, have less packaging and last longer.

She also favors more shared goods in society, such as car sharing, and the library near her home in Berkeley, that will loan out ladders and repair tools. More companies could offer to lease their goods, she believes, and there would be more incentive for them to build things to last and offer comprehensive repairs.

There is no question that such proposals swim against the tide of popular economic theory and globalization, which encourage more trade and more production. Metrics like Gross Domestic Product measure a nation’s success based on the amount of stuff it produces, with no attempt to measure the health or happiness of the population, never mind the health of the ecosystems.

Leonard castigates the World Bank and World Trade organization who have loaned money to poor countries on the condition that they knock out subsidies or tariff protections for farmers. Uprooted from the land, they go to work in urban sweatshops, making tchotchkes that find their way to the local department store.

Such policies also led to famine in Haiti, when the displacement of rice farmers  (many of whom ended up in garment factories) caused the country to depend on imports — a disastrous dependence when a drought in Australia jacked up the cost of imported rice.

The market has meant the most developed countries like America importing goods from abroad while exporting the social and environmental consequences to somewhere where there are looser regulations.

Now Trump promises to put his shoulder against this tide of commerce and bring manufacturing industries back to America. Between the backpedaling he’s made on previous promises and the billionaire cast of corporate raiders he’s picked for his cabinet, I have my doubts about this. Suppose the industries did come back, though. In that case, a hamstrung and mismanaged Trump EPA would likely allow them to start dumping sludge in the rivers and carcinogens in the air — America would start to look more like the wastelands overseas where its manufacturing happens now.

Whether or not something has a Made in China sticker or a Made in America sticker, the fact that much of what we buy ends up neglected or on the curb indicates that plenty of stuff just shouldn’t be made at all.

Advertising and consumer culture work overtime to create need, to keep the wheels turning, but this is no recipe for happiness, Leonard says. We just have to work harder to buy everything, and that means less time and energy spent on what matters.

“Relationships with family, peers, colleagues, neighbors, and community members have proven over and over to be the biggest determining factor in our happiness, once our basic needs are met,” she writes. “Yet because we’re working more than ever before to afford and maintain all this Stuff, we’re spending more time alone and less time with family, with friends, with neighbors.”

Those who try to live simple, sustainable lives must make sacrifices, but perhaps those sacrifices are not so great as the choice to live one’s life, unexamined, in endless want, roaming the aisles in search of some product to dull the dissatisfaction for a moment.

Purity: A Novel

Jonathan Franzen

One thing I admire about Jonathan Franzen’s fiction is that he is a big-picture guy. Human overpopulation is an important issues that most contemporary books  I’ve read tend to avoid, or mention in a perfunctory manner. But Franzen managed to fit that concept into a novel that wide-ranging, but also personal with his 2010 book Freedom.

Last year, he wrote Purity, which took on a similarly ambitious subject: the Internet’s power to dissolve secrecy, a theme that is all too familiar in the wake of the U.S. presidential election. Franzen also looked at authoritarian undercurrents within the Internet, where the exchange of ideas often gives way to groupthink.

The antagonist of the story, Andreas Wolf, is a figure in the mold of Assange who runs a Wikileaks-type organization exposing international scandals and corrupt governments. Despite the fact that his organization has exposed wrongdoers, Wolf does so selectively, choosing to ignore whistleblowers that give him big leads on abuses by Google and other tech companies — those are the enemies that he cannot afford to turn against. He is no idealist about the future of the Internet; rather, he sees it as an incarnation of the totalitarian East Germany where he grew up.

“If you substituted networks for socialism, you got the Internet,” Wolf thinks. “Its competing platforms were united in their ambition to define every term of your existence.”

Indeed, Facebook has surveillance powers that would have made Stalin proud. We may not have a commissar to confess to, but the phone is always on the table, waiting for the next post. Whether your online buddies are safe-space micro-aggression chroniclers or Cliven Bundy sympathizers who will tell you why their racism is not racist, you will always be aware that every view you post will be subject to their scrutiny and pressure to tell them what they want to hear.

Online publications play the same games. Selling clicks has been great business for echo chambers like The Huffington Post on the left and Breitbart on the right: the brave new media, that feed people views they already agree with.

“The aim of the Internet and its associated technologies was to “liberate” humanity from the tasks,” Franzen writes. “—Making things, learning things, remembering things—that had previously given meaning to life and thus had constituted life. Now it seemed as if the only task that meant anything was search-engine optimization.”

Franzen contrasts the self-aggrandizing Wolf with Tom Abberant, a dyed-in-the-wool journalist he befriends, but later seeks to destroy. Why? Because Abberant knows a dirty secret that could ruin him. The hypocrisy of someone who tells other people’s secrets, holding on to his own is damning, but hardly unexpected.

Abberant is also his rival as a standard bearer for the old guard of journalism, that his brand of leak-based news has begun to displace. Journalism in Purity, as in real life, is a dying field.

A young woman named Purity — nicknamed Pip — works for both men and sees the world through their competing visions. She is literally the younger generation in the story, awash in student loan debt and struggling to find meaningful employment. She also is determined to find out who her father is, a question that draws her to Wolf in hopes that he can find him for her. The desire to uncover secrecy motivates her, but Wolf sees this as an opportunity to mobilize her against his enemy, Abberant.

As in the spy masters of the Cold War, Wolf power is contingent on revealing his enemy’s secrets while withholding his own.

In the last decade, we have seen the Internet’s power to unmask secrets brought to bear on politicians, corporations, celebrities, on average people. This year, leaked video and leaked emails hounded the campaigns of Donald Trump and Hillary Clinton respectively. Voters (including me) were more interested in what the candidates had to hide about themselves, then what they trumpeted about themselves. Discovering their secrets was more entertaining than going down a list of their policy points.

Yet, these revelations had their own agenda. I remember going to the Wikileaks website shortly after hacked emails from the Clinton campaign came out. Julian Assange had written a piece defending his decision to publicize the emails, even though this would clearly help the campaign of the most undemocratic candidate in U.S. history. Assange basically said, Hey, If I had some dirt on Trump, I’d release it, but right now, I’ve got dirt on Hillary. In other words, Wikileaks is just a neutral medium, like a pane of glass that makes no decisions about what it puts out — a lovely abdication of editorial responsibility. Too bad that Russia decided to use that outlet as a tool to advance its own agenda.

To those who believe that it is best for the media is best served as an impartial mediator between two sides, Franzen disagrees. “Filtering isn’t phoniness — it’s civilization,” he writes. Good writing is an example of an author focusing in on specific aspects of an issue. A good photograph is cropped to focus on what the photographer sees as important.

Media outlets do have the power to put information into context, and arguably that is the more important part of their job. One way the media could have thrown the hack into context would have been to highlight suspicions that the hack was Russia backed and asked why. The question gained steam after the election when it was too late to change anything. Yet the illicit thrill of finding out a secret was more newsworthy at the time.

It is tempting, but misleading, to believe that we are living in a utopian era of total information access. A look at the world today, tells me that the power to twist the information, and to continue to conceal, is more powerful than the information itself. All the reams of information in the world about Global Warming is worth nought if the likes of Donald Trump simply repeat that Global Warming is a hoax. We have no idea what his tax returns are either.

Still, the constant drip-drip-drip of information from the Internet can convince us that we are busy, that we are learning things and advancing knowledge —distracting us while the ship veers off its course and into the path of a deadly reef.

I think back to one of the ancient Marshall Islands boat navigators Tristan Gooley describes in How to Read Water.  They might have have perceived a reef beneath the surface of the water because of the way the waves felt. They did this by closing their eyes: too much information would distract them.

In the year to come, I believe that it would profit me, and many others to adopt a similar selectiveness when it comes to understanding the world. Sometimes it is better to close your eyes, so that you can think about the information you already have, instead of constantly absorbing new data and not thinking about what it means.

We have an unprecedented ability to acquire information, but sometimes it is more of a distraction than a help.

Large Boots to Fill? Bring Extra Socks.

Skiing over a bridge on the trail to Lake Angeles

It’s simple math.

Size 10 feet plus four pairs of heavy socks, equals size 15 feet.

Indeed, when I wedged, my very well insulated toes into the oversized telemark boots, I felt a measure of reassuring snugness. Yeah, this could work.

I bought telemark skis and boots from a friend who is much larger than I am. The price was cheap. I figured I could eventually sell the oversize boots and buy some cheap tele boots that fit me. The problem is, not many people want to buy tele boots, nor do many people have them for sale. I had  been too cheap to buy a new pair online and too lazy to get busy trying to pawn the monster ski boots off on someone else. Now I was too bored to not to try the set up out anyway.

Powder abounds in the mountains above my Port Angeles, Washington home with access via the Hurricane Ridge Road into Olympic National Park. Traditionally, skiers start at around 4,000 to 5,000 feet, where the Pacific Northwest precipitation yields absurd quantities of snow.

But wrongheaded, obstinate me, wanted to avoid the long drive and noted that there was the Lake Angeles Trailhead at 1,850 feet, which was just below snow-line.

When I pulled into the parking lot,  my Civic struggled to push its way into a snow-filled parking space. Eventually, I got it to pull in backwards and I aimed the hood slightly downhill so gravity would be on my side when it was time to drive out of there. I’d had doubts earlier, but now I was sure there  would be enough snow to ski on.

Lake Angeles is a quiet alpine lake almost 2,500 feet above the trailhead. Darkness would set in at around a little after four p.m. This was a small window to work with, but I decided to go for it. No matter where I was, I planned to turn around at about 3 pm to avoid being utterly benighted.

The snow at the start of the trail was shallow enough so that the waxy green leaves of the salal shrubs  still poked through the surface. I glided along confidently with the help of climbing skins that went from the tip of the skis to my toes.  I’d also sprayed some kick wax beneath the skis earlier to give them more grip. The warm snow was at first  too slippery for the wax to be effective. The narrow trail, meant for hikers, didn’t leave much room to set in edges and it was tough not to slide backwards. As I climbed up higher and the temperature dropped, I felt the grip engage, and occasionally  it become too much.

When snow began to gum up beneath my boots, I lost most of my ability to glide forward with each stride, but it also meant that I could take on the steeper sections with less fear.

As for the boots, they felt pretty good. OK, so my shins were repeatedly slamming into the front, which did kind of hurt, but it got better after I raised the ascender bars beneath my heels.

Intermittently, the trees in front of me filled with frozen mist. It lent a closed-in, anxious feeling to the woods. In the open areas, it created a dreamlike tableaux, where the rows of pines marched up the mountainside to where they diminished, vanished.

A clearing in the forest

The trail had small streams to cross, a narrow footbridge where I balanced on my skis above a brook. I felt hungry, having not eaten lunch yet, but refused to dig my pasta out until I reached the goal.

Finally, I reached Lake Angeles. It was frozen over obviously.

The imposing walls of Klahhane Ridge rose above. I could remember my first run along this trail back in July when I watched nematodes thrashing in the stagnant waters, and an occasional fish jumped out. Now there was silence and drifting snow.

Thousands of needle-like frost feathers grew out of the alder branches by the water. Above them, a ghost of sunlight tried in vain to penetrate the clouds. Even this short break was enough to make me shiver, to clutch my hands against between my thighs for warmth.

I slurped down the pasta that I’d brought along as fast as I could. It was now 3 p.m. and I knew I should get back.

The trail had been hard work going up; Going down, it was punishment. The hard snowpack and narrow margins left little room for maneuvering, plenty of opportunity to pick up speed and catch a ski tip on a root. I ended up leaving my climbing skins on so that something would kill my speed. Many skiers may see the sport as an artistic pursuit, one that allows flow, balance and confidence under speed — none of that applied to the garbage slope I was going down. This was no tango I was dancing; I was in a bar fight, swinging pieces of a broken stool, always on the brink of losing my feet.

There were a few sections where I was proud of myself for staying up, plenty of others where I fell and cursed. I could see why there were no other ski tracks on the trail. Everyone else knew better, apparently.

In an attempt to get down safe, I would cruise along a short distance, and then veer off trail on the uphill side to kill momentum. I ended up skidding along large sections of the trail diagonally. Because there were no switchbacks, 80 percent of the descent involved me making a sloppy right turn. Roots and branches tended to mess with the climbing skins, so I lost a lot of time readjusting them. The further down I went, the more challenging it became because the snow got more shallow.

All the while, it was getting darker. Finally, after the skins became dislodged for the umpteenth time, I decided it was time to take the skis off. It was just as well, because that was right before the steepest section on the trail. It was maybe only another 200 yards from there to get back to the car.  I tromped the rest of the way back.

Basically, the skis had worked, though next time, I may follow the other skiers to the soft, forgiving powder at the higher elevations.

And how did my feet  do in the oversized boots? I’m happy to say that with four pairs of socks on, I managed to finish the trip without cold toes.

Lake Angeles, December 24, 2016

 

Tubal Cain

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The author steps inside the Tubal Cain mine

The snowfall was one thing Lauren and I hadn’t counted on when we set out in search of the Tubal Cain mine in the Dungeness Valley.

First there was the drive up from Sequim, where we climbed a couple thousand feet into the Olympic Mountains via a winding dirt road that was full of potholes. We got to the trailhead a bit before noon. The snow was beginning to pack onto the dirt. Soon enough, it would become impassable.

There was only a light dusting on the trail as we began our hike, but as we gained elevation, the snow deepened. High white peaks glared down on us.

A couple hours into our hike, the trail we’d been following through the trees became a slog through deeper powder. Following the twists and turns of the trail became more difficult. There appeared to be a fork next to some orange flagging. Lauren thought we should go left, but I insisted that we go straight ahead. My way petered out into a meadow a couple minutes later. The snow made it difficult to see where anything went.

We doubled back and tried Lauren’s route, which led into a boulder garden. We passed a few pieces of metal, which seemed out of place. A B-17 had crashed  here on a rescue mission back in the ’50s, and apparently the debris had scattered over a large area (though we were probably looking at old mining equipment.) The main crash site was close by, and was a popular spot for visitors to check out, but it seemed unlikely that we would have time to check it out now that it was getting late.

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On the pothole road

_mg_1305Lauren at a stream crossing along the trail

_mg_1300Moss closeup 

We had both put off lunch for a while, and were hungry. A large, overhanging boulder made for a semi-sheltered rest stop, where we could sit down.

The rocks had a weird smell to them like a mix between stale beer and marijuana. For a second, I wondered if someone else was out there with us, but we had seen no other tracks in the snow.

We sat down on my sleeping pad, eating fistfuls of Lauren’s homemade trail mix. I looked dubiously at a bruised up banana I had brought along. Fortunately, Lauren had the idea to incorporate it into a sandwich with flatbread and pieces of a chocolate bar. As if this weren’t fancy enough, she added a bit of the flambé. Using my lighter in lieu of a torch, she put the chocolate to the flame, melted it over the banana in a fine drizzle. This method took no small amount of time, but the melted chocolate pattern elevated the utilitarian wrap into backcountry gourmet.

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Wrap construction and Lauren with the finished product.

Unfortunately, the clock was running down on us.

If we didn’t head back soon, we would likely finish our hike in the dark. I decided that we owed ourselves another 10 minutes of searching for the mine before we called it a day.

I pulled the map out and squinted at the features to see where the trail was supposed to go.

It looked like the mine could be on the other side of a creek, so we crossed over. I took us up a snowy hillside, approaching a cliff wall. Something about this felt right, but I couldn’t tell if I was drawing conclusions based on false optimism. I beat my way ahead of Lauren through the drifted snow on the way uphill. There was a patch of gravel that looked trail-like. Once again, there was that strange skunky odor in the air. A few steps beyond and I was at the bottom of the cliff.

And there was the mine! It was a dark opening, a mouth in the gray body of the rock.

Row on row of icicles hung above the darkness like an array of fangs.

The beast had announced itself with stale breath — the dead odor that I had perceived earlier.

A drool of a stream gurgled out from the unseen depths.

Come on in.

I let myself savor my trepidation and turned back down the slope.

“Whoo Lauren! Come on up! You gotta see this!”

Several icicles fell off the rocks and smashed into the stream below. Plenty more of them were waiting up there — a definite hazard.

I also wanted to go in. But how far did the rabbit hole go?

I took a headlamp and a small lantern out from my pack. Well, we’d come this far.

Lauren was game to accompany me on some minor-league spelunking. I walked in first, with ginger steps upon the various stones and pieces of smashed up wood poking up above the water. There were segments of dilapidated tracks that would have transported cars full of ore back in the day.

Here in there were half-rusted pipes put in there God-knows-when; I only trusted half of them not to shatter beneath my feet. I shone the light in front of me, saw only a uniform corridor, retreating to oblivion. There was no undulation or other variation as in what one would expect from an ordinary cave. Neither were there stalactites or stalagmites.  It was just tall enough to walk under, just wide  enough to stretch hands out to reach either side.

A century ago, efficient men had chipped the tunnel straight and direct into the rock so it would bring them to the copper ore. The mine was named after Tubal Cain, a metalsmith and the biblical descendant of Cain — Abel’s jealous brother. For all the work that the men had put in, the mine had brought more hardship than profit. The clearest legacy of the men’s labors was the straight and narrow shaft bored into the rock.

There was one variation against the uniformity of the stone however. It was on the ceiling, where I perceived small hanging objects, here and there. Small, furry, hanging objects.

I turned carefully around to Lauren, noticed one of them near her head.

“Sooooo…” I said in a voice that was meant to sound calm, and which likely inspired the opposite, “How do you feel about bats?”

“I actually really don’t like them,” Lauren said.

“OK, so maybe we should walk back out the way we came.”

“You’re seeing bats in here?”

“Just don’t look up at the ceiling.”.

I waited until we made our retreat back to the light to announce that indeed there had been several chiropterans in the mine, one of which had been only a couple feet away from Lauren’s head.

Lauren noted that bats or birds, or anything flying at her head were really not her cup of tea.

They weren’t my cup of tea either. I recalled Stephen King’s book Cujo, where a bat bite turned a once lovable dog into a homicidal killer.

But that was just a story. What business did stories have to do with being afraid of the dark and its mutants and zombies and Gollum and old Tubal Cain himself, waiting for victims dumb enough to enter his lair?

What business?

I turned back to the mouth.

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Mountain view within the valley

“I’ll be back in a little bit. I just want to see some more,” I said. You can tell them my story if I don’t come back.

Going back into the cave, I hunched over like Quasimodo, in hopes that any bats I dislodged would miss my face.* The stale air in the shaft made me uneasy. No photosynthesis putting out fresh oxygen here. Our nostrils can tell us much about our proximity to life.

I began to feel hot under my jacket as I walked into the earth. I picked my way above the stream, moving from stone to wood, to any section of pipe I trusted enough to put my weight on. I took one misstep and managed to put half my boot in the water.

“Damn!”

“Are you alright?” Lauren called from the open world far away.

“Yeah, I’m OK.”

I kept trudging forward. I wondered if there would be any side alcoves or tunnels and if I would have the nerve to explore them. A big open chamber would be pretty cool. All I found was the same endless tunnel. Finally, after I spent many minutes of walking straight, the ceiling dropped lower and the walls closed in. The corridor went further toward some unseeable destination.

While the passage was still wide enough to move through on my feet, do to so, I’d have to walk through the stream, which ran deeper in the narrows. With a couple of hours of snowy hiking ahead of me, I was in no mood to turn my feet into ice blocks.

I hated to admit it, but I was relieved not to have an excuse to turn around. If not for the obstruction, how much farther would I have gone?** I guessed that I had gone about 100 yards through the narrow corridor, or about the length of a football field. I was ready to go back.

Hardier explorers than I will have to plumb the mysteries of Tubal Cain.

I picked my way back over the stream to the entrance of the mine. Every step made the walls a little brighter. I exhaled in relief and then took a breath of the fresh mountain air outside.

No bats had attacked, I had made it out alive and it was time for Lauren and I to hike back out through the snow to the car. I was glad get back to the land of the living.

_mg_1311The author takes a moment to mess with his pack

Notes

* After I returned from the hike, I talked to a friend who had been on a few cave tours. Even when bats fly out, they will avoid collisions with sonar, she said. The best thing to do if a bunch of bats come at you is to stay still and let them steer away. If you freak out and flap your arms, they are more likely to be confused and hit you.

** Apparently, the Tubal Cain mine goes almost 3,000 feet back into the rock. So I was probably only a tenth of the way in. I also learned later that the mine is still private property and I was not supposed to go in because of risk (unspecified.) I’ll plead innocent here, having not read this anywhere before the trip. I dug information about mine history here: http://www.kawal.net/tubalcain.htm.

I learned about the scale of the mine, its current ownership and the B-17 here:  http://www.seattletimes.com/life/travel/an-eerie-october-hike-to-downed-b-17-and-old-mine-site/

Tarp Tenting in Goat Country

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Tarp Camp at a foundation in Heather Park

I have this fantasy that one day I will become a Master of Gear.

The Master Of Gear knows exactly what to bring on any given trip, can effortlessly summon shelter, fire, warmth and dryness against the hostile elements. He or she can produce a cup of hot tea to warm your numb fingers, deflect windblown snow with a handy tarp, will always have an extra dry pair of socks, puts on a waterproof layer before the rain starts, wears exactly the right amount of clothes, is never cold, never sweats and has a pack that is much lighter than yours. Nothing is unnecessary.

You will look at your too heavy tent, ripped sleeping bag, the rag-tag assortment of bent stakes and garbage bags, remember that the gloves you need are in the bottom of your pack and feel like the amateur you are. Why do you even try? You’ll never get it right.

And yet I keep striving to get better and to become more fluent in the little tricks and beats that make up the rhythm of hiking, especially if I happen to be traveling with a significant other, especially if I’d talked big game earlier.

When Lauren had said she was looking to buy a tent for herself, I told her that she might save money and weight by choosing a lightweight tarp instead.

“They are better than tents in some ways,” I remember saying with conviction. “You can cook inside them without poisoning yourself with carbon monoxide, the ventilation will reduce the amount of moisture inside.”

I went on about how a cheap lightweight bivy sack could provide wind protection to the sleeping bag, how I had a friend who’d hiked the Appalachian Trail under a tarp, how explorers had even used them for winter camping.

Lauren was skeptical. Then she saw a tarp that weighed just over a pound going for $24 online. She went for it.

Not one to step down from a challenge, I suggested that we try it out on a November camping trip in the Olympic Mountains.

That is how we ended up hiking up along the Heather Park Trail on our way to a 5,300-foot campsite.

If I am not yet Master of Gear, I try to at least become Moderately Capable Guy.

As such, I have a couple of OK tricks in the bag. such as keeping a small piece of insulated mat at the outside of my pack. This enabled us to take a quick sit-down break on the side of the trail without getting our butts wet or cold. I’ve also taken to hiking with food and water in my jacket pockets to make it easier to access the basics when needed. Some “extras” that I brought along included crampons, if I wanted to mess around on hard-packed slopes up higher, an ice axe and a ski pole with ice axe attachment.

A quick sip of water was in order after a couple of hours (and 2,000 feet) of climbing up the trail. The lush environment that we had started in had given way to thinner trees, with many fallen trunks strewn about the mountain side. A fine dusting of snow was on the ground, a cold bite was in the air.

An opening in the trees led to a ledge, where Lauren and I could step out and look at Port Angeles Harbor, where gigantic cargo ships at anchor looked like rectangular islands. To the west, I traced the land to Protection Island and near the harbor of Port Townsend.

A mere 15 miles (give or take) out I saw Vancouver Island, Canada. Though I can see the island on any clear day from Port Angeles, it usually looks like a two-dimensional strip of hills and mountains. From on high, I could see beyond Victoria into the heartland of the enormous chunk of land (the largest island in the eastern Pacific) to the intricate passages off its eastern coast and over to vast inland lakes.

Our break went before another mile of steep hiking where the powdered snow got a couple inches deep. Later, we came to a stream and an abandoned foundation for a hiker hotel. The builders  had abandoned their project long ago, but left a footprint for two weary travelers to set up tarp.

I let Lauren get water for our dinner while I bravely took on the challenge of putting up our shelter.

The tarp to tent substitution is something that I have tried at different times over the years, with varying degrees of success.  I went for a walk down memory lane through some of my older blogs and concluded that something usually sucks about every tarp I’ve built. Here’s how I describe one night in the Black Hills four years ago:

Now that I had some tiny cocoon of body heat, I was damn reluctant to get up and fool around in the rain trying to adjust my demented shelter while getting everything soaked in the process. Instead, I forced myself into the fetal position, trying to think happy thoughts and reflect on all that valuable wilderness experience that I was getting.

And now I was subjecting my girlfriend to this?

But, hey, the tarp shelter that I’d built back in July had worked out decently enough. The shelter of the foundation gave me confidence too.

First, I kicked away the snow from the place where we would be sleeping, and swept it clear with a pine bough.

I tied one end of a rope to a tree branch where the foundation walls formed a corner and tied the other end to the head of my ice axe, which I sank into the dirt further away. This place, I was sure, would provide plenty of protection. I placed the tarp over the rope and secured the corners down with stake. I secured other corners down with two other tree branches and a piece of metal within a fireplace. I hauled off on knots so that I could make everything tight as possible.

Lauren came back to see a hodgepodge of ropes and knots, me still fiddling to get stakes in the semi-frozen ground.

“This is taking forever. Maybe we should have just brought a tent.”

“Nonsense. This is under control. I’m just a little rusty at tarp set up. It takes awhile.”

Eventually, I had everything into a crude, but workable shelter for us to  put our pads and sleeping bags. Next, we folded our sleeping bags into lightweight, reflective bivy sacks that would hold in heat and shield us from the elements. Lauren’s feet were cold, so I took a moment to warm them on my belly, and then she got herself settled into her bag. I knew that if we were low on calories, it would be harder for both of us to maintain core temperature. A hot dinner was an obvious priority.

I took a bathroom break shortly before dinner, making sure to move a good distance away from the shelter. The last thing I wanted was the scent of urine drawing unwelcome visitors: mountain goats.

Hunters in the early 20th century saw the bold crags of the Olympic Mountains, the green blue waters of glacial lakes and gushing rivers and thought, “What this place really needs are some new large animals for us to shoot.”

Never mind that the fragile ecosystems in the Olympic Mountains developed without the large disruptive herbivores foraging the vegetation, and beating paths through the brush. The Cascade Mountains, not far away, did have mountain goats and it was easy enough to truck them over. The relocated goats did find the new environment to their liking. Unfortunately, for the hunters, their dreams of open goat season went off the table once the Olympics became national park in 1938. The shaggy beasts were left to stalk over the rocks and ridges to forage on the alpine plants and thrive in their new environment.

Even if these goats were bad for the mountains, I can’t deny that I would have loved to have seen some of these majestic creatures in their element. I’ve always admired their ability to leap gracefully along the sides of sheer cliffs. The sure-hoofedness of the animals would have been a spectacle to  behold — though hopefully from a distance.

Goats are known to have a territorial streak. They can get stand-offish. Since they also can weigh hundreds of pounds and have large pointy horns on their heads, this can be dangerous. The one recorded animal fatality in Olympic National Park was the result of a goat charge near Hurricane Ridge.

It would seem logical for humans exploring the Olympics to try to avoid goat encounters, but unfortunately, human activities will attract goats. They seek out human sweat and urine because of its salt content. The Park Service encourages people to pee away from trails so that the goats don’t hang out there.

I had a ranger tell me the troubles of one unfortunate hiker who had set his sweaty shirt down in goat country. He must have walked away or else have been pretty unobservant, because a goat gobbled it up. Bummer.

Later, the goat decided the shirt wasn’t its style and regurgitated it back up. That was “lucky” for the hiker, who only had only brought one shirt into the cold, mountainous area. He put it back on and wore his newly-moistened garb the rest of the hike out.

For those of us unlucky enough to have a close goat encounter, the rangers have advised yelling and throwing rocks.

The advice changes during mating season, to “Stay out of the goats’ way,” — according to the same ranger who told me about the shirt-eating incident.

This time of year is mating season, which means that any yelling or posturing at goats would probably threaten the manhood of the males — kind of like calling the biggest guy in the biker bar a pansy in front of his friends —  with predictable, violent consequences. Better to move aside and act non-threatening.

As early as the summer, the Park Service still hadn’t have a definitive plan as to what to do with the goats inside the park. They are a popular sight for tourists and a majestic creature to boot. It just happens that they are in the wrong place, through no fault of their own.

One proposal is a relocation program that involves tranquilizing goats and trucking them back to the Cascades. Goats that evade capture will then face bullets from human hunters who will finally get to do what the people who brought the goats to the mountains had wanted to do in the first place.*

The fact that there may not be goats in the Olympics someday soon only made me want to see a goat even more. Again, I should reemphasize that I only want to see this goat on my own terms. A pee-seeking goat stomping around the campsite was not what I had in mind.

I put aside goat thoughts and went back to food.

The chef’s special of the evening included split pea soup made from dehydrated flakes I’d brought from a natural food store earlier.

Lauren got my stove running from her sleeping bag and we got water up to boil. The flakes cooked in no time and soon we had a meal that could put some warmth back in our guts . The fact that we could cook this meal from inside our shelter was a definite plus. If we had been tent-camping, I would have set the stove outside in the raw elements so as not to burn the tent down or kill us with carbon monoxide. Score for the tarp tent!

The stove added warmth and a little moisture to our small shelter. Little beads formed on the inside of the tarp that would surely freeze later.

Spanish rice followed the pea soup. I added a tube of tomato paste for additional flavor. The heat was great for us, but Lauren’s feet were getting cold again.

I saw the obvious solution in an empty peanut jar I’d brought along. It could make a great hot water bottle. I boiled another pot of water and poured it in. While I had done this before with Nalgene bottles and aluminum, the heat of boiling water was too much for the thin plastic canister and it melted the top of the jar, rendering the screw top completely useless.

I cursed mightily at the spilled water and at myself. Why did I have to fill the jar to the very top? Why did I have to put completely boiling water in there?

The spill had moved toward Lauren’s sleeping area, but we were able to swipe it away before it did real harm. It had left a salty residue that goats might be interested in. I was bummed that I wasn’t able to help with Lauren’s feet. The whole thing felt like a bad omen for the oncoming night.

I gathered the remains of dinner back in the bear can and walked it up the trail to where it would be away from our tent. I took one last pee before I went back to the tent area. I had no interest in leaving my sleeping bag until morning.

Night time in a sleeping bag is the perfect time to wander into that half-sleep of speculation. Is that noise the wind jostling the branches, or is it a massive horned animal stalking the woods for urine deposits? Maybe the strange slits of its pupils were glowing red with malicious inner light.

And, hey, maybe it wants to kill you.

It is not difficult to imagine bad intentions from the beast with cloven hooves.

“Did you hear something?” Lauren asked.

“Hmmm. It probably wasn’t anything.” I said. I moved my ski pole with the ice axe closer to my sleeping bag.

I drifted back toward almost sleep until I heard a scuff, or maybe it was a sneeze.

Lauren: “What was that?”

I peeked over the flapping tarp, saw nothing in the darkness.

“Not sure,” I said.

The demons were toying with us, no doubt.

Sometimes music is the best remedy in times of stress, and I channeled the Rolling Stones.

“Wiiyiilld mountain goats …. couldn’t butt me to death.”

But maybe it was the wind that was going to do us in. Katabatic winds are common in the mountains, especially around coastal ranges like the Olympics. What happens is the warm air that rose to the higher elevations in the day time, begins to condense on the cold mountainside come nightfall. Then that colder, denser air begins falling down the mountains, producing intense wind gusts.

Not long after I got into my bag, a sigh went through the trees, and then the tarp began flapping around like the dickens. The moisture from our cooking and our breath now formed a frosty layer that the wind beat away like dust out of a carpet. Each gust of wind brought a little sprinkle of this icy stuff down onto our faces. Then the wind would stop or I’d here it blowing on some other part of the mountain, I would start to feel myself drifting back toward sleep and the wind would come back. It always came back.

I pictured the wind twisting effortlessly over the rock wall and swiping its cold fury over us. I cursed myself for not putting the tent right up into the corner. Right now, the wall was accomplishing next to nothing.

Plus, the knots that I had used to lash the tarp tightly together were coming loose, and the structure flapped nastily. Reviewing the flaws in my structure, made me feel like no Master of Gear, but perhaps the Master’s dull student who hadn’t done his homework.

“You should lower the front, so the wind doesn’t get in so much,” Lauren said.

The idea made sense, although, I had to get half out of my sleeping bag to make it work. I reluctantly untied the guy-lines from the fixed objects in the front and staked them into the ground. This did lower the wind profile of the tarp and it felt better inside. I clipped my pack into the center line also to make the shelter less apt to billow upward when the wind filled it. It also provided a partial wind barrier. Snowflakes were drifting into the shelter now.

I figured I’d done the best I could and rolled back over into my sleeping bag.

Sleep might have come then, but a few minutes later, the wind seemed to get much worse and the flapping louder.

“A tent stake came up!” Lauren announced. I could look up and see stars in the night sky. I cursed some more and got up to drive the stake back into the ground and reinforced it with a second stake in the same place. A while later, a different stake came up, and I had to reinforce that one too.

“Should we go back down the mountain?” Lauren asked.

I thought about getting out of the sleeping bag to reorganize everything for a trip out into that icy wind. I felt no great excitement at the prospect.

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This was the best shot of the tarp I could manage through my fogged lens that morning The night winds had been unkind to our shelter.

At least our bivy sacks gave us a greater level of protection than what we would have encountered in our sleeping bags alone. If a little snow got on us, it wouldn’t melt into our insulation.

Still, we were both getting plenty cold. It was about 4 a.m. now and my hope was that the sunrise would give us some renewed vigor. The path of least resistance, staying in place, felt like the way to go.

By some miracle, the rest of the stakes held through the night.

We stumbled out of our bags to fetch the bear can and to fill up water for breakfast.

Sure enough the warm food and hot coffee put life back into us. Better yet, there was light coming in through the clouds and a little warmth to go with it.

We dismantled shelter, packed our gear and headed up the trail.

Initially, Lauren had voted we go right back down to the car, but the promising weather had changed her mind. The scenery around Heather Park includes views of the jagged peaks around First Top and Second Top.

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Lauren climbing on ridge near Heather Park

We wore gaiters to keep snow out of our boots, and Lauren had a pair of micro-spikes to improve her grip on the snow. My crampons stayed in the pack. For the moment, they were too heavy-duty for what we were dealing with.

The trail wound up a series of switch backs until we got to a ridge where we could look out toward the Mount Angeles ridge and Hurricane Hill. I could make out the pale, blue line of Lake Crescent. It looked like another beautiful day down there.

The scenery, Lauren said, was worth the brutal night. I breathed a sigh of relief. Not all of the gear had worked perfectly, but we had stayed in the game.

On high, the wind whipped like a banshee through the hills and the clouds raced above the jagged peaks at unnatural speed. We topped out at Heather Pass. There was an inhuman drama to the scene that appealed to me. I always remember how much I love mountains when I go up into them.

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Another view above Heather Park
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After the freezing night, I’m glad Lauren was in high spirits, didn’t try to throw me off the mountain.

Before we went down to the lower elevations, we went up onto a higher ridge. I went ahead for the top, grabbing holds in the rock with the tips of my axes and pulling myself up. The effort rewarded me with a view of Port Angeles and the little toy boats moored in the harbor.

The ridge had something else: goat prints in the snow. Sometimes I followed in their tracks because they beat their way through the thickest brush. I had to hand it to them, thriving up in this freezing country without the sleeping bags, stoves, ice axes or tarps we humans were compelled to bring. If I had seen any of the rugged creatures roaming around, I might have asked how they pulled it off.

Alas, the hoof prints were the only sign. They kept themselves, and their secrets, hidden.

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  • Regarding mountain goat removal plans: I heard about the proposal from the ranger station, and wanted to do more research.The information I found online was sketchy, but there is a document here, that suggests a plan to get the goats out of the Olympic Mountains.https://parkplanning.nps.gov/projectHome.cfm?projectId=49246